Plant Care Basics

Why Is My Pothos Not Growing and How to Fix It

Stalled pothos growth is a sign of an underlying imbalance. Our guide helps you diagnose the specific cause and make the right adjustments to get it growing again.

When a once-thriving pothos plant stops producing new leaves, it is signaling that its current conditions are not ideal. This pause in growth is the plant’s way of communicating a problem with its care or environment. Understanding the potential causes is the first step toward identifying the specific problem. This guide explores the most frequent reasons for stalled development and provides clear actions to rejuvenate your pothos.

Reviewing Your Pothos Care Routine

Light

Proper lighting fuels the photosynthesis that creates energy for new leaves. While pothos tolerate lower light conditions, this is often mistaken for a preference. In environments with insufficient light, a pothos will conserve energy, resulting in stagnant growth and a sparse, leggy appearance as it stretches toward a light source.

Conversely, exposing pothos to intense, direct sunlight is detrimental. The harsh rays can scorch the leaves, causing them to turn yellow or develop brown, crispy patches. This damage stresses the plant, forcing it to divert energy toward repairing damaged tissues rather than producing new growth. An ideal location provides consistent, filtered sunlight, such as near an east-facing window or several feet back from a south or west-facing window.

Water

Watering practices are a delicate balance, as both overwatering and underwatering can bring growth to a halt. When a pothos is underwatered, the soil becomes completely dry, and the plant cannot draw the moisture needed for metabolic functions. The leaves may start to wilt, curl, or turn brown at the edges as the plant enters a survival mode, ceasing new development.

Overwatering is a more frequent and damaging issue, leading to root rot. When the soil remains waterlogged, the roots are deprived of oxygen and begin to decay. This decay prevents the roots from absorbing water and nutrients, effectively starving the plant. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, a mushy stem base, and a perpetually damp soil surface.

Nutrients

Pothos are not heavy feeders, but they do require a steady supply of nutrients from the soil to sustain their growth. Over time, a plant will deplete the available nutrients in its potting mix. This leads to smaller new leaves, pale foliage color, and a stop in growth, which is common in plants that have been in the same pot for years.

Applying too much fertilizer can be just as harmful. An excess of synthetic fertilizer salts can accumulate in the soil, creating a toxic environment that can burn the plant’s roots. This damage, known as fertilizer burn, impairs the root system and stops growth. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength every 4-6 weeks during the spring and summer, and reduce feeding during the dormant fall and winter months.

Temperature

Pothos thrive in indoor temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Within this stable environment, the plant’s metabolic processes function efficiently to support growth. If temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant’s functions slow dramatically, leading to a dormant state. Sudden temperature fluctuations from drafts can also inhibit development. Placing a pothos near a drafty window, air conditioning vent, or heating source creates an unstable environment, so maintaining a consistent temperature is best for its well-being.

Checking the Pot and Roots

A plant’s growth can be physically restricted by its container. When a pothos becomes root-bound, its root system has filled the entire pot, leaving little room for soil or expansion. You might notice roots emerging from the drainage holes, or the soil may dry out very quickly. To confirm if your pothos is root-bound, gently slide it out of its pot; if you see a dense, tangled mass of roots circling the bottom and sides, it is time to repot.

Repotting gives the plant fresh, nutrient-rich soil and the physical space its roots need to grow. Select a new container that is only one to two inches larger in diameter than the current one. Moving to a pot that is too large can lead to overwatering, as the excess soil will hold moisture for too long. Gently loosen the tangled roots to encourage them to grow outward, place the plant in the new pot, fill the space with a well-draining potting mix, and water it thoroughly.

Inspecting for Pests and Diseases

Sometimes, a lack of growth is caused by an attack from common household pests. These pests feed on the plant’s sap, draining it of the fluids and nutrients it needs to produce new leaves. This continuous drain of resources weakens the plant and diverts its energy toward fending off the infestation rather than growing.

Two of the most common culprits for pothos are spider mites and mealybugs. Spider mites are tiny, but their presence is often revealed by fine, silky webbing on the undersides of leaves. Mealybugs are easier to spot, appearing as small, white, cottony masses clustered in leaf axils. Both pests will cause growth to stagnate, so wiping affected areas with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or applying an insecticidal soap can manage them.

How to Stimulate New Growth

After you have addressed any underlying issues, you can take proactive steps to encourage new growth. Pruning is an effective method for rejuvenating a pothos, especially if it has become long and leggy. Trimming the vines sends a hormonal signal to activate dormant buds along the stems, resulting in a fuller, bushier appearance.

The process is straightforward. Identify any long, sparse vines and make your cuts with clean scissors just after a leaf node, which is the small bump on the stem where a leaf grows. Cutting here encourages the plant to branch out from that point, often producing two new shoots.

You can trim several vines at once to reshape the plant and promote widespread new growth. This redirects its energy into creating a denser form rather than extending single, long vines. These cuttings can also be easily propagated in water to create new plants.

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