Tomateo: How to Grow and Use Tomatillos

The tomatillo, a fruit native to Mexico, is a staple in the country’s cuisine. Known botanically as Physalis philadelphica, it is a relative of the tomato but is distinguished by its papery outer husk and distinctly tart flavor profile. Cultivated since the time of the Aztecs, its name translates from Spanish to “little tomato.”

Tomatillos are central to many traditional dishes, most notably salsa verde, where their natural acidity provides a bright counterpoint to other ingredients. While often cooked to mellow their flavor, they can also be used raw. Today, most commercial production of this adaptable fruit still comes from Mexico and Guatemala.

Identifying and Selecting Tomatillos

When selecting tomatillos, the primary indicator of quality is the papery husk. A fresh tomatillo will have a snug, dry husk that is light brown or green. You should avoid tomatillos with husks that appear shriveled, damp, or torn, as these are signs the fruit inside may be past its prime.

The fruit itself should be firm when gently squeezed and should fill the husk. A tomatillo that feels soft or mushy is likely overripe and will have a less desirable texture. The color of the fruit is also a useful guide; look for a vibrant, bright green for most culinary uses.

Yellowing or purple-hued tomatillos are not spoiled but are more mature, resulting in a sweeter, less tart flavor. While most tomatillos in stores are green, you may encounter purple varieties, which are naturally a bit sweeter. The selection criteria remain the same regardless of color.

Preparing Tomatillos for Cooking

Before a tomatillo can be used, it must be properly prepared, starting with the removal of its inedible husk. Once the papery covering is peeled back and discarded, you will notice a sticky film on the fruit’s surface. This residue is a natural substance that helps protect the tomatillo from insects and should be washed off.

To remove the sticky coating, rinse the tomatillos thoroughly under cool running water. You can gently rub the fruit with your fingers or use a soft vegetable brush to ensure all the residue is gone. Soaking the tomatillos in a bowl of water for about five minutes can also help loosen the film.

After washing, dry the tomatillos completely with a paper towel or clean cloth. This step is important if you plan to roast or broil them, as excess moisture can prevent the skins from blistering and charring properly.

Common Cooking Methods

The way a tomatillo is cooked significantly influences its flavor. Roasting or broiling is a popular method that brings out the fruit’s natural sweetness. The high, dry heat caramelizes the sugars, resulting in a deeper, smokier flavor profile. This involves placing tomatillos on a baking sheet under a broiler until their skins are blistered and charred.

Boiling or simmering offers a different outcome, yielding a milder and tangier taste. When tomatillos are cooked in water, their sharp acidity is mellowed, but they retain a bright, clean flavor. The tomatillos are simmered until they become tender and their color shifts from bright to a duller green, making them ideal for smooth sauces.

Using tomatillos raw provides the most intense and acidic flavor. Uncooked, their tart, citrus-like notes are at the forefront, contributing a vibrant quality to dishes. Finely diced raw tomatillos can be added to salads or salsas for a bright, acidic kick.

Popular Tomatillo Recipes

The most iconic dish featuring tomatillos is salsa verde, a versatile green sauce that is a staple in Mexican cuisine. A classic salsa verde can be prepared with either roasted tomatillos for a smoky, sweet result, or boiled ones for a tarter flavor. The roasted version is ideal for serving with grilled meats or as a dip.

To make a roasted salsa verde, place approximately one pound of husked tomatillos, a quartered onion, two or three serrano chiles, and a few unpeeled garlic cloves on a baking sheet. Broil these ingredients until softened and lightly charred, which takes about 10-15 minutes. Allow them to cool slightly, peel the garlic, and transfer everything to a blender with fresh cilantro, lime juice, and salt, blending to your preferred consistency.

Another beloved recipe is Chile Verde, a rich and savory stew. This dish uses a tomatillo sauce to tenderize meat as it simmers. The process starts by browning cubed pork shoulder in a large pot. A sauce is made by blending roasted tomatillos, onions, garlic, and chiles, which is then poured over the pork with chicken stock and simmered until the meat is fork-tender.

Storing Tomatillos

Proper storage is important for maintaining the freshness of tomatillos. For short-term use, they can be kept at room temperature for a couple of days in a well-ventilated spot. For longer storage, the refrigerator is the best option.

Place the tomatillos with their husks still on in a paper bag and store them in the crisper drawer. The paper bag helps absorb excess moisture, and they can last for up to three weeks this way. Avoid storing them in airtight plastic bags, as this traps moisture and accelerates decay.

For long-term storage, freezing is an effective method that preserves tomatillos for up to a year. To freeze them, first remove the husks and wash the fruit to remove the sticky residue. After patting them dry, you can freeze the tomatillos whole, sliced, or diced on a baking sheet before transferring them to a freezer-safe container.

Growing Tomatillos

Tomatillos can be grown from seeds started indoors six to eight weeks before the last expected frost, or seedlings can be purchased from a nursery. They thrive in a location that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil.

Proper pollination is necessary for the plants to produce fruit. The plants are not self-fertile, which means you must plant at least two tomatillo plants near each other to facilitate cross-pollination by insects. Without a second plant, the flowers will not produce fruit.

The plants have a sprawling growth habit and can benefit from some form of support, such as stakes or a trellis, to keep the fruit off the ground. Harvesting is done when the fruit has grown large enough to fill out the papery husk, often causing it to split open at the bottom. The fruit should feel firm to the touch.

Regular harvesting encourages the plant to continue producing more fruit throughout the growing season.