The 4 Amaryllis Growth Stages Explained
Learn the rhythms of the amaryllis's annual cycle. Understanding how the bulb stores and uses energy is the key to its health and repeat blooms.
The amaryllis is a popular plant known for its large, vibrant flowers that often bloom indoors during winter. This display is the result of a cyclical journey through distinct phases of rest, growth, and flowering. Understanding these stages is the key to successfully cultivating this plant year after year, as each part of the cycle requires different care to support its natural progression.
Stage 1: The Dormant Bulb and Planting
Start by selecting a healthy, dormant amaryllis bulb. A quality bulb will feel firm and dry, similar to an onion, with no signs of mold or decay; larger bulbs tend to produce more flower stalks. Before planting, hydrate the bulb’s roots by soaking them in lukewarm water for a few hours to encourage new growth.
Amaryllis plants perform well when their roots are slightly confined, so select a pot only about one inch wider than the bulb’s diameter. The pot must have a drainage hole to prevent water from causing bulb rot. A heavier pot, like one made from terracotta, provides stability and prevents the tall plant from tipping over when it blooms.
Use a sterile, well-draining potting mix. Fill the pot about halfway and place the bulb inside, spreading its roots. Add more soil, ensuring the top one-third of the bulb remains exposed above the soil line. After potting, water the soil thoroughly and place the pot in a warm, bright location to awaken the bulb.
Stage 2: Sprouting and Flowering
After planting, the bulb awakens from dormancy over several weeks. The first sign of life is the emergence of a thick, green flower stalk, though leaves may appear first. During this initial period, water sparingly, only when the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Placing the pot in a warm spot, around 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, will encourage stem development.
As the stalk grows, provide bright, indirect light. To prevent the stalk from leaning towards the light source, rotate the pot every few days to encourage straight growth. Once the plant has about two inches of new development, you can water more regularly, maintaining consistently moist but not waterlogged soil.
Flower buds will form at the top of the stalk, which can grow one to two feet tall. It takes between six to ten weeks from planting for the amaryllis to bloom. Once the buds begin to open, move the plant to a cooler location out of direct sunlight to prolong the life of the flowers. A single stalk can produce multiple large blossoms that last for several weeks.
Stage 3: Post-Bloom and Leaf Growth
Once the flowers have faded, the plant enters a recovery and energy storage phase. Snip off the spent blooms near the top of the stalk to prevent seed production. Do not remove the flower stalk immediately; as long as it remains green, it, along with the long, strap-like leaves that will develop, helps the plant create and store energy in the bulb for future growth through photosynthesis. Wait until the stalk turns yellow and withers before cutting it back to about one to two inches above the bulb.
During this period of leaf growth, place the plant in a sunny location to maximize light exposure and water whenever the top inch of soil becomes dry. This is also the time to begin fertilizing. Apply a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 formula, about once a month to help the bulb grow larger and stronger, ensuring it has the resources for the next flowering cycle. This stage of leaf growth and feeding lasts for several months.
Stage 4: Dormancy and Reawakening
After several months of leafy growth, the plant must enter a dormant period. To induce dormancy in late summer or early fall, gradually reduce watering and stop fertilizing. Move the plant to a cool, dark, and dry location, such as a basement or closet, with temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
The leaves will naturally yellow and wither, at which point they can be trimmed off. The bulb must remain in this cool, dark environment without water for a minimum of eight to twelve weeks. This resting period allows the bulb to prepare for the next flowering cycle. Some growers remove the bulb from the soil and store it in a paper bag, while others leave it in the pot.
To reawaken the amaryllis, bring the potted bulb back into a warm, bright room. If it was removed from its pot, repot it in fresh soil. Resume watering, providing a thorough drink to signal the start of a new growth cycle. New growth, either a flower stalk or leaves, should appear within a few weeks, beginning the process again.