Suckulent? How to Grow and Care for Succulents
Learn the core principles of succulent care. This guide explains the relationship between light, water, and soil to help you grow healthy plants.
Learn the core principles of succulent care. This guide explains the relationship between light, water, and soil to help you grow healthy plants.
For those searching for a “suckulent” plant, the correct term is succulent. These plants are defined by their ability to store water in thick, fleshy tissues, an adaptation derived from the Latin word sucus meaning juice or sap. This feature allows them to thrive in arid environments and makes them exceptionally resilient.
Their popularity stems from being low-maintenance, making them an accessible choice for new gardeners. Succulents also exhibit an incredible diversity in form, color, and texture, from the rosettes of an Echeveria to the cascading stems of a String of Pearls. Their versatility allows them to be grown in various settings, from small indoor pots to expansive outdoor rock gardens.
The genus Echeveria is known for its tightly packed, rosette-shaped leaves that resemble a flower. These plants, like Echeveria elegans or “Mexican Snowball,” come in a spectrum of colors from silvery-green to shades of pink and purple, depending on light exposure. Their compact and symmetrical appearance makes them a focal point in many arrangements.
The Sedum genus includes both upright and trailing varieties. A popular trailing type is Sedum morganianum, or “Burro’s Tail,” prized for its long, hanging stems covered in plump, blue-green leaves. It is an excellent choice for hanging baskets where its unique foliage can cascade downwards.
The genus Aloe is famous for Aloe barbadensis miller, or Aloe Vera. This plant is characterized by thick, spiky, lance-shaped leaves that grow upward from a central base. While known for the soothing gel inside its leaves, the plant itself is also a visually striking houseplant with a distinctive architectural form.
Sempervivum, or “Hens and Chicks,” is a hardy choice for outdoor rock gardens. These plants grow in low, tight rosettes (the “hens”) and produce numerous smaller offset plants (the “chicks”) around the base. This growth habit allows them to spread and form dense mats over time, covering ground with colorful foliage.
Crassula ovata, the Jade Plant, has thick, woody stems and glossy, oval-shaped leaves, giving it a miniature tree-like structure. This slow-growing and long-lived succulent can become a substantial feature in a room over many years. Its sturdy form provides a contrast to the softer shapes of other common succulents.
Proper lighting is a primary factor for healthy succulents. Most varieties thrive in bright, indirect sunlight for several hours a day. An east-facing window that receives softer morning sun or a spot near a south-facing window is often ideal. Insufficient light will cause a succulent to stretch toward the light source, a process called etiolation.
Succulents are highly susceptible to root rot if their roots remain wet, so the correct soil is fundamental. Standard potting mixes retain too much moisture and are unsuitable. Use a specially formulated cactus or succulent mix, which contains gritty materials like sand or pumice for drainage. You can also create your own mix by amending potting soil with a generous amount of perlite or coarse sand.
The most common mistake with succulents is overwatering. The best practice is the “soak and dry” method. Water the plant thoroughly until it runs from the pot’s drainage hole, then wait for the soil to dry out completely before watering again. To check for dryness, you can insert a finger or a wooden stick into the soil. Watering frequency will vary based on conditions but can range from every few weeks in summer to less often in winter.
A pot with at least one drainage hole is required to prevent water from pooling at the roots. Terracotta pots are often a good choice because their porous material allows soil to dry out more quickly than plastic or glazed ceramic containers. The pot should also be appropriately sized for the plant, as an overly large pot will hold excess moisture and soil.
Succulents have adapted to low-nutrient environments and do not require frequent fertilization. During their active growing season of spring and summer, you can apply a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half or quarter strength. Apply it only once or twice during this period. Avoid fertilizing in the fall and winter when most succulents are dormant.
One rewarding aspect of succulents is their ease of propagation. A popular method is using a leaf, which works well for varieties like Echeveria and Sedum. Gently twist a healthy leaf from the stem, ensuring a clean break at the base. Allow the cut end to dry and form a callus over several days in a dry place away from direct sun; this prevents the leaf from rotting.
Once calloused, lay the leaf on top of a tray of well-draining succulent soil. Place the tray in bright, indirect light and mist the soil every few days to keep it slightly moist. In several weeks, tiny roots and a new plantlet will emerge. As the new pup grows, the original leaf will wither and can be removed, and the new plant can be potted.
Stem propagation is another common technique, often used for succulents that have become leggy. Use a clean blade to cut the top portion of the plant, leaving an inch or two of stem below the rosette. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting to create a bare stem to plant.
As with leaf propagation, the cut end of the stem must be allowed to callus over for several days. Once calloused, plant the stem in well-draining soil, just deep enough for it to stand upright. Wait about a week before watering to allow roots to form, then begin using the “soak and dry” method. The cutting will root and grow into a new, more compact plant.
Overwatering is the most frequent issue. Symptoms include leaves that appear yellow, feel mushy or soft, and may look translucent, which indicates root rot is likely setting in. If you suspect overwatering, stop watering and allow the soil to dry completely. For severe cases, you may need to unpot the plant, inspect the roots, trim away any that are brown or black, and repot in fresh, dry soil.
Insufficient light causes a condition called etiolation. This is when a succulent stretches and becomes leggy, with a notable distance between its leaves as it reaches for a light source. The plant may also lose its vibrant color and appear pale green. This stretching is irreversible, but you can fix the plant’s appearance by moving it to a location with more light and beheading the stretched top to propagate.
Mealybugs are a common pest affecting succulents, appearing as small, white, cottony masses where leaves join the stem. They feed on the plant’s juices, which can lead to stunted growth and discolored leaves. For small infestations, a simple treatment is to dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and apply it directly to the mealybugs. Isolate any infested plant to prevent the pests from spreading.