Jungle Cactus: How to Grow and Care for These Plants
Explore care for jungle cacti based on their rainforest origins, a key distinction from their desert relatives for ensuring healthy growth and encouraging blooms.
Explore care for jungle cacti based on their rainforest origins, a key distinction from their desert relatives for ensuring healthy growth and encouraging blooms.
Jungle cacti are a unique group of plants that originate from the humid, tropical rainforests of Central and South America. Unlike what many envision when they hear the word cactus, these plants are not inhabitants of arid landscapes. Instead, they have adapted to life in the moist, dappled light of the forest understory. Many grow as epiphytes or lithophytes, meaning they anchor themselves to tree bark or rocks rather than rooting in the ground. They derive nutrients from the air, rainfall, and accumulated organic debris.
Desert cacti are built for survival in arid, sun-drenched locations, with thick, waxy skin to prevent water loss and sharp spines for defense and shade. They store vast amounts of water in their barrel-shaped or cylindrical bodies to endure long periods of drought. Their root systems are shallow and wide-spreading to capture any available surface moisture.
In contrast, jungle cacti evolved in the humid, shaded canopy of rainforests. Their forms are flattened, leaf-like, and segmented, designed to catch filtered light and rainwater trickling down from above. Instead of prominent spines, many have fine, hair-like bristles or are entirely smooth. Their survival strategy is based on thriving in high humidity and absorbing moisture frequently, a direct opposition to the drought-tolerant nature of their desert relatives.
Recognizable jungle cacti include the holiday-themed Schlumbergera, which includes both Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti. These are known for their distinctly flattened and segmented stems, which are modified branches called cladodes. They produce vibrant, multi-layered flowers at the tips of these segments, timed with the changing seasons. Another popular variety is Epiphyllum, or orchid cactus, prized for its large and often fragrant flowers in an array of stunning colors, set against long, flat, and sometimes serrated stems.
Rhipsalis, or mistletoe cactus, features thin, trailing stems that can be cylindrical, angular, or flattened. These stems cascade downwards, resembling anything from green spaghetti to a delicate chain of beads, making them well-suited for hanging baskets. Finally, the Hatiora, or Easter cactus, is often grouped with holiday cacti due to its seasonal blooming habit. It resembles Schlumbergera but can be distinguished by the more rounded, scalloped edges of its stem segments and its star-shaped flowers that appear in the spring.
Jungle cacti mimic the filtered sunlight of their native rainforest habitat. These plants flourish in bright, indirect light. An east-facing window that receives gentle morning sun is an ideal location. They can also do well a few feet back from a west or south-facing window, where the light is less intense. Direct, prolonged sunlight will scorch their stems, causing them to turn yellow or red and develop brown, burnt patches.
The soil for a jungle cactus must provide excellent drainage to replicate its epiphytic or lithophytic lifestyle. A standard cactus or succulent mix is a good start, but a custom blend is better. A good mixture combines one part standard potting soil with one part orchid bark and one part perlite or pumice. This blend allows water to drain freely, preventing root rot.
A fixed schedule is not recommended; instead, check the soil with your finger. Water thoroughly only when the top one to two inches of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. When watering, allow the excess to drain completely from the pot’s drainage holes. These plants should not be left sitting in a saucer of water, as this is a common cause of root decay.
Jungle cacti prefer the warm and stable temperatures found in most homes, thriving between 60°F and 80°F (15°C to 27°C). They are not frost-tolerant and require protection from cold drafts and sudden temperature drops. As natives of humid environments, they benefit from increased moisture in the air. To increase local humidity, you can group plants together, place them on a pebble tray with water, or use a room humidifier.
During the active growing season of spring and summer, jungle cacti should be fed regularly. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, and dilute it to half the recommended strength to avoid burning the roots. Apply this diluted solution monthly. Fertilizing should be paused during the fall and winter months when growth slows.
For blooming varieties, encouraging flowers involves simulating their native environmental triggers through a process called photoperiodism. This relies on manipulating light and temperature to initiate bud formation. Provide a dormancy period in the autumn for about six to eight weeks before you want them to bloom.
This rest period involves two main changes. First, reduce watering, allowing the soil to dry out more than usual between waterings, but not so much that stems shrivel. Second, the plant needs cooler temperatures and long, uninterrupted nights. Move the plant to a cool room where temperatures are between 50-55°F (10-13°C) and ensure it receives at least 12-14 hours of complete darkness each night. Once buds begin to form, you can return the plant to its usual location and resume normal care.
A frequent issue is limp or shriveled stems, which can be a sign of either under or overwatering. To diagnose, feel the soil. If the soil is bone-dry and the stems look wrinkled, the plant is underwatered. If the soil is soggy and the stems are limp and mushy at the base, overwatering and potential root rot are the cause.
Stems that turn yellow or develop a reddish tinge indicate too much direct sunlight. The plant should be moved to a location with more filtered or indirect light. The color will return to normal once the plant is in a more suitable spot.
A failure to bloom can have several causes besides a lack of a proper dormancy period. The plant might be too young to flower or it may have had insufficient light during the growing season to store energy for buds. A lack of nutrients can also be a factor, which is addressed with fertilizing during spring and summer.
Watch for common houseplant pests like mealybugs and scale insects. Mealybugs appear as small, white, cotton-like masses, hiding in the joints between stem segments. Scale are small, brown, immobile bumps on the stems. Both can be treated by dabbing the individual pests with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol.