How to Identify, Grow, and Care for Borsigiana

While many plant enthusiasts know Monstera deliciosa, the name “Borsigiana” can be a source of confusion. This name refers to what is botanically a variety, formally known as Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana. For the everyday plant owner, it appears nearly identical to its more common relative. While scientifically related, there are distinct physical traits that growers use to tell them apart. Understanding these differences is the first step for anyone looking to identify or acquire this variety, as the variations become more apparent when the plants mature.

Distinguishing Borsigiana from Monstera Deliciosa

The Geniculum

One of the most reliable methods for distinguishing a mature Monstera deliciosa from a Borsigiana is by examining the geniculum, the small joint connecting the leaf to the petiole. On a mature Monstera deliciosa, this area develops wrinkles or ruffles. In contrast, the geniculum on a Borsigiana remains smooth. This identifier only becomes apparent on mature plants, as young specimens of both types may have a smooth geniculum.

Internodal Spacing

Another difference lies in the stem’s internodal spacing. Nodes are the points on the stem where leaves and aerial roots emerge, and an internode is the space between them. The Borsigiana variety has much longer internodal spacing compared to the standard Monstera deliciosa. This gives the Borsigiana a more vining appearance, while the deliciosa, with its tightly packed nodes, grows in a bushier, more compact fashion.

Growth Habit and Speed

The different stem structures influence the overall growth habit. The Borsigiana displays a vining tendency from an early age, actively seeking surfaces to climb. Its rapid growth is fueled by the longer internodes that allow it to stretch quickly. Conversely, the Monstera deliciosa grows in a more sprawling manner when young, only beginning to climb as it matures.

Leaf Size and Fenestrations

While leaf size is influenced by growing conditions, a distinction exists. Mature Monstera deliciosa plants produce massive leaves that can exceed three feet in width. Borsigiana leaves are smaller, often reaching about half that size. The pattern of splits, or fenestrations, can also differ, as a mature deliciosa may develop multiple rows of fenestrations, whereas a Borsigiana has only one.

Popular Variegated Forms

The Borsigiana variety is known for unstable genetic mutations that result in variegation, making these forms prized by collectors. The variegation appears as patches of tissue that lack chlorophyll, creating patterns against the green foliage. These plants are more expensive than their non-variegated counterparts due to rarity and appearance. The unpredictable nature of the variegation means no two leaves are exactly alike.

One of the most sought-after is the Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana ‘Albo Variegata’. This cultivar is distinguished by its white variegation that can appear in splashes, marbled patterns, or large blocks called “half-moon” leaves. Because the white sections cannot photosynthesize, the plant’s growth can be slower and its care more demanding.

A different variation is the Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana ‘Aurea’, sometimes called ‘Marmorata’. This form features variegation in shades of yellow and lime green. The ‘Aurea’ mutation can produce a range of patterns, from subtle marbling to large patches of yellow. Like the ‘Albo’, the ‘Aurea’ is a collector’s item with similar care requirements, as the variegated sections are sensitive.

Ideal Care and Growth

Light

Proper lighting is fundamental for a healthy Borsigiana, especially for variegated forms. These plants thrive in bright, indirect light; an east-facing window is ideal. While they can adapt to lower light, growth will be slower and potentially leggy. Avoid direct sunlight as it can scorch the leaves, particularly the white sections on variegated types.

Water

Watering a Borsigiana requires balance to prevent root rot. The best practice is to water thoroughly only when the top one to two inches of soil feel dry. Ensure the pot has adequate drainage holes to allow excess water to escape. It is safer to slightly underwater than to overwater.

Soil

A well-draining and aerated soil mix is necessary. An effective mix includes peat moss for moisture retention, perlite for aeration, and orchid bark to create a chunky structure. This combination helps provide the roots with oxygen while preventing the soil from becoming waterlogged.

Humidity

Borsigiana appreciates high humidity levels, ideally between 60% and 80%. While they tolerate average household humidity, increasing the moisture in the air promotes more robust growth. Using a humidifier, grouping plants together, or placing the pot on a pebble tray are effective ways to create a more humid microclimate.

Fertilizer

During the spring and summer growing seasons, a regular feeding schedule supports vigorous growth. A balanced liquid fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, can be applied every four to six weeks. Fertilizing should be reduced or stopped during the fall and winter when growth slows. Over-fertilizing can lead to a buildup of salts in the soil and damage the roots.

Support

Given its tendency to climb, providing a support structure is beneficial for a Borsigiana. A moss pole or trellis gives the plant’s aerial roots something to cling to, encouraging upward growth. This support helps manage its vining habit and signals the plant to produce larger, more mature leaves with better fenestrations.

Propagation Techniques

Propagating a Borsigiana is successfully done using stem cuttings. For a successful cutting, you need a clean, sharp tool and a rooting medium like water, sphagnum moss, or a soil mix. The cutting must contain at least one node, which is the small bump on the stem where leaves and roots grow.

First, identify a healthy section of the stem with at least one leaf and a node, then make a clean cut just below it. If the cutting has multiple leaves, remove the lower ones to direct the plant’s energy toward root production. If the cutting has a prominent aerial root, it is beneficial to include it, as it can readily convert to a soil root.

Place the cutting in your chosen medium. If using water, submerge the node while keeping the leaf above the water line, and change the water every few days. For sphagnum moss, keep it moist and maintain high humidity. Roots should form within a few weeks, and once they are a couple of inches long, the new plant can be potted in soil.

Common Problems

Variegated Borsigiana plants are susceptible to reversion, where the plant produces all-green leaves. This is a result of genetic instability and can be triggered by insufficient light as the plant tries to maximize its photosynthetic capabilities. If you notice reversion, prune the stem back to the last variegated leaf to encourage new growth with variegation.

Leggy growth, characterized by long stems with sparse foliage, is a frequent issue. While the Borsigiana has a vining habit, legginess is exacerbated by inadequate lighting as the plant stretches for a better light source. To correct this, move the plant to a location with brighter, indirect light and prune the leggy stems to encourage bushier growth.

Borsigiana can be a target for common pests such as spider mites and thrips. Spider mites create fine webbing on the undersides of leaves, while thrips can cause silvery patches and distorted new growth. Regularly inspect your plant for pests and if an infestation is found, treat it promptly with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, covering all leaf and stem surfaces.