How to Grow and Care for Zingaro Dahlia

The Zingaro dahlia is a decorative type with unique coloration. Its buds start as a rich, reddish-purple and open into fully double flowers. The petals blend soft lavender-pink with a pale yellow near the deep plum-colored center, creating a striking contrast in blooms that measure five to six inches across.

Reaching a height of approximately three feet, the plant is upright and bushy with dark green, pinnate leaves. Buds emerge continuously from midsummer until the first frost, creating a display of color in various stages of opening.

Planting Zingaro Dahlias

Plant dahlia tubers only after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed, which is late spring in most temperate climates. Planting in cold, wet soil can cause the tubers to rot before they sprout.

Zingaro dahlias require a location that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil must be fertile and well-draining to prevent decay; a loamy or sandy composition is best. You can improve heavy clay soils with organic matter like compost.

Dig a hole four to six inches deep and place the tuber inside with the “eye,” or growth bud, facing up. If the eye isn’t visible, orient the remnant of last year’s stalk upwards. Space tubers 18 to 24 inches apart to allow room for growth and good air circulation. Backfill the hole with soil but do not water until the first shoots appear.

Essential Care and Maintenance

Watering

Provide a deep soaking once or twice a week, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. This method encourages the root system to grow deeper, making the plant more resilient during dry spells.

Fertilizing

To promote more flowers instead of excess leaf growth, use a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 or 10-20-20 formula. Begin fertilizing after the dahlia has sprouted and shows vigorous growth. Continue to apply it every three to four weeks through summer, stopping in early fall.

Staking

Zingaro dahlias grow tall and their blooms are heavy, so they require support. Place a sturdy stake next to the plant when it is about a foot tall, being careful not to damage the tuber. As the main stem grows, loosely tie it to the stake to prevent it from snapping.

Pinching

Pinching creates a fuller, bushier plant with more blooms. When the dahlia is 12 to 16 inches tall with three or four pairs of leaves, pinch off the top of the central stem. This redirects the plant’s energy into producing more side branches and flowers.

Overwintering Zingaro Dahlia Tubers

In climates with freezing winters, you must dig up and store the tubers. Begin this process after the first hard frost turns the foliage black, which signals the tuber to enter dormancy. Carefully lift the entire clump from the ground with a pitchfork or spade, starting about a foot from the stem to avoid damage.

Cut the stalk down to a few inches and gently brush off excess soil, being careful as the tubers can be brittle. The next step is curing the tubers to toughen their skins for storage. Place the cleaned clumps in a dry, cool, and well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight for several days to a week, until the skin feels firm.

For storage, pack the cured tubers in a ventilated container like a cardboard box with a loose, dry medium such as vermiculite, peat moss, or sawdust. Ensure the tubers do not touch. Store the container in a cool, dark place that stays between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit, where they will remain dormant until spring.

Common Pests and Diseases

Common dahlia pests include slugs and snails, which damage young shoots and leave slime trails. Earwigs chew on petals and leaves and can be trapped in rolled-up, damp newspaper placed near the plants. Spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions and appear as fine webbing on the undersides of leaves.

A common disease is powdery mildew, which presents as a white, dusty coating on the leaves and develops in humid conditions. If it appears, remove the affected leaves and apply a fungicide to manage its spread.