How to Grow and Care for White Princess Philodendron
Learn to create the ideal environment for a thriving White Princess Philodendron, encourage its variegation, and distinguish it from similar plants.
Learn to create the ideal environment for a thriving White Princess Philodendron, encourage its variegation, and distinguish it from similar plants.
The White Princess Philodendron, a cultivar of Philodendron erubescens, is a favorite within the houseplant community. Its appeal lies in the contrast of its deep green, heart-shaped leaves, which are unpredictably splashed with bright white. This plant has an upright, self-heading growth habit, meaning it grows vertically and maintains a compact, bushy form rather than vining. This growth pattern makes it well-suited for placement on shelves or desks without requiring a trellis.
Proper lighting is directly linked to the health and variegation of the White Princess. This plant thrives in several hours of bright, indirect sunlight, such as near an east-facing window or a few feet from a filtered south or west-facing window. The white sections of the leaves lack chlorophyll, making them susceptible to scorch from direct sun. Insufficient light will cause the plant to produce more chlorophyll, leading to a loss of variegation as new leaves emerge greener.
A suitable growing medium must balance moisture retention, aeration, and drainage. A well-draining aroid mix is recommended, which you can create by combining equal parts of potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark. This mixture ensures roots have access to moisture without sitting in soggy soil, which prevents root rot and promotes healthy root development.
Consistent watering is necessary for a healthy White Princess. The soil should be allowed to partially dry out between waterings; water when the top one to two inches of soil feel dry. Check the soil with your finger rather than watering on a strict schedule. When you water, saturate the soil until water runs out of the drainage holes, and then discard any excess from the saucer to prevent the roots from sitting in water.
As a tropical plant, the White Princess flourishes in warm and humid conditions, preferring temperatures between 65°F and 85°F (18°C to 29°C). It should be protected from cold drafts and sudden temperature changes. High humidity levels, between 60% and 80%, encourage healthy foliage. You can increase humidity by grouping it with other plants, using a pebble tray, or placing a small humidifier nearby.
During the spring and summer growing season, the White Princess benefits from regular feeding. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer with a 10-10-10 formula is a good option, diluted to half-strength and applied once or twice a month. Fertilize after watering to ensure nutrient absorption and avoid burning the roots. Suspend feeding during the fall and winter when growth slows.
Periodic maintenance helps keep the White Princess looking full and directs its energy toward healthy, variegated growth. During the spring and summer, use clean, sharp shears to trim any yellow, brown, or damaged leaves. If the plant becomes too tall, you can prune healthy stems just above a node to encourage a bushier habit. These cuttings can be used for propagation.
Repotting every two to three years, or when the plant becomes root-bound, is beneficial. Signs of a root-bound plant include roots growing from drainage holes or stunted growth. The best time to repot is spring or early summer. Choose a new pot one to two inches larger in diameter than the current one. Gently remove the plant, loosen the root ball, and place it in the new pot with a fresh, well-draining soil mix.
Multiplying your White Princess is a straightforward process using stem cuttings, best done during the spring or summer. Use sterilized scissors to take a cutting that is four to six inches long and includes at least one node and a few leaves. The node is a small bump on the stem where new roots will form.
You can root the cutting in water or soil. For water propagation, place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the node is submerged, and change the water every few days. Once roots are about two inches long, transplant it into soil. For soil propagation, dip the cut end in rooting hormone and plant it directly into a moist potting mix, covering the node.
Loss of variegation, or reversion, occurs when the plant is not receiving enough light. To address this, move the plant to a location with brighter, indirect light. If a stem produces all-green leaves, prune it back to the last variegated leaf to encourage new white markings.
Yellowing leaves are often caused by overwatering, so check the soil moisture and allow it to dry out more between waterings. Brown, crispy leaf tips indicate low humidity or underwatering. Brown spots on the white parts of the leaves are often sunburn from direct light. Pests like spider mites and mealybugs can be managed by wiping them off or using an insecticidal soap.
Distinguishing the White Princess from the White Knight and White Wizard comes down to their stems and leaf shapes. The Philodendron White Princess has green stems that often feature pink or white coloration, particularly on the cataphylls that protect new leaves. Its leaves are narrower and more lance-shaped compared to the others.
The Philodendron White Knight is a climbing variety identified by its dark, reddish-brown or burgundy stems. This contrasts with its white and green variegated leaves, which are broader and more rounded. The Philodendron White Wizard is also a climber and has green stems, but they lack the pink edging of the Princess. The Wizard’s variegation often appears in larger patches, and its leaves are generally the roundest of the three.