Plant Profiles & Identification

How to Grow and Care for Trichocereus Sun Goddess

A guide to the key balances for a thriving Trichocereus Sun Goddess, ensuring robust growth and the conditions needed for its large, fragrant blooms.

The Trichocereus ‘Sun Goddess’ is a popular columnar cactus known for its rapid growth and vibrant green stem with pronounced ribs and dense, golden-yellow spines. Its appeal comes from its structure and its ability to produce enormous, fragrant flowers that bloom at night. As a fast-growing specimen, it can quickly become a significant feature in a collection or landscape, sometimes doubling in size each season under favorable conditions.

Sun Goddess Cactus Care

A Sun Goddess cactus thrives in bright, direct sunlight. In climates with intense summer heat, provide partial shade during the afternoon to prevent sunburn. For indoor plants, a south-facing window is suitable for ensuring adequate light.

This cactus requires a soil mixture with exceptional drainage. A quality cactus and succulent mix is appropriate, especially when amended with perlite, pumice, or coarse sand to enhance water flow and prevent root issues. Standard potting soil retains too much moisture.

Water using a “soak and dry” method, thoroughly watering the plant and then allowing the top 50-70% of the soil to dry out completely before the next application. It is better to water less frequently to avoid root rot. During winter dormancy, reduce watering significantly to once every couple of months.

This cactus is hardy and tolerates temperatures from -3 to 55 degrees Celsius, making it well-suited for USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11. While it can handle light frosts, it requires protection from hard freezes. During the spring and summer growing season, apply a diluted, low-nitrogen cactus fertilizer monthly to support its rapid growth.

Encouraging Blooms

To achieve blooms, a Sun Goddess cactus must first reach maturity, which can take several years. Once mature, the primary factor for encouraging flowers is a distinct winter dormancy period. This cool, dry rest signals the plant to form flower buds for the spring.

To initiate dormancy, drastically reduce water in the fall and winter and keep the cactus in a cooler environment, ideally between 4-10°C (40-50°F), while protecting it from frost. This combination of reduced water and cooler temperatures mimics its natural flowering cues. A return to regular watering and warmer temperatures in spring often triggers bud development.

The resulting flowers are exceptionally large, reaching up to 10 inches in diameter, and are typically white or pale yellow. These blooms are nocturnal, opening in the evening to release a strong fragrance. Each flower lasts for about 24 hours before wilting.

Propagation Methods

Propagating the Sun Goddess is best done using cuttings from the offsets, or “pups,” the plant produces. Select a healthy pup and use a clean, sharp knife to remove it from the base of the main stem.

After taking the cutting, allow the cut surface to dry and form a callus. Place the cutting in a dry, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight for at least a week. This callousing process is a defense against rot when the cutting is planted.

Once a firm callus has formed, plant the cutting about an inch deep into a container with a dry, well-draining cactus mix. Wait a week or two before providing a very light watering to stimulate new root growth.

Common Issues

Several common issues can affect the Sun Goddess, most of which are preventable with proper care.

  • Root rot: This is a result of overwatering or soil that does not drain properly. Symptoms include a stem base that becomes soft, mushy, and turns brown or black.
  • Etiolation: This stretching occurs when the cactus does not receive enough light. The stem will grow thin, pale, and structurally weak. While a stretched cactus will not revert to its original shape, moving it to better light ensures new growth is compact.
  • Pests: Mealybugs and spider mites are the most common pests. Mealybugs appear as small, white, cottony masses, while spider mites can be identified by fine webbing. Dab mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol, or use insecticidal soap or neem oil for wider infestations.
  • Sunburn: This appears as discolored yellow, white, or brown patches with a scarred, corky texture. It occurs when the cactus is exposed to overly intense sun. While the spots are permanent, moving the plant to a location with afternoon shade prevents further damage.
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