How to Grow and Care for Sweet Suzanne Dahlia

The Sweet Suzanne dahlia is a variety prized for its unique coloration and form. Classified as a ball dahlia, its blooms are perfectly rounded, fully double flowers with inwardly curved petals. The coloring is a delicate blend of soft peach, apricot, and creamy tones, which converge at a lemon-yellow or soft green center. These blooms reach about 3.5 to 4 inches in diameter and grow on strong, straight stems.

This dahlia’s warm, pastel shades have made it popular for wedding bouquets and cut flower gardens. The petals sometimes feature pencil-thin streaks of a darker apricot shade and have slightly fringed tips, adding to their lively appearance. Introduced in 2020, this variety has quickly gained admiration for its productive blooming and charming aesthetic.

Planting and Growing Conditions

Wait until spring after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has started to warm. This timing prevents the delicate tubers from being damaged by late-season cold snaps, ensuring a healthy start for the growing season.

Select a location that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, as dahlias thrive in bright light. The soil should be well-draining and amended with organic matter, such as compost, to provide a rich foundation. Good drainage prevents water from pooling around the tubers, which can lead to rot.

When planting, dig a hole approximately four to six inches deep. Place the tuber horizontally inside the hole with its “eye,” or growth bud, pointing upward. If planting multiple tubers, space them about 12 to 18 inches apart. This spacing gives each plant adequate room to mature and allows for proper air circulation, which helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases.

Seasonal Care and Maintenance

Provide a deep watering two to three times a week, allowing the soil to become saturated. This method encourages the roots to grow deeper, creating a more resilient plant compared to frequent, shallow watering. Adjust the frequency based on weather conditions, providing more water during hot, dry spells.

‘Sweet Suzanne’ produces large, heavy blooms on tall stems, so providing support is recommended. Place a sturdy stake into the ground at the time of planting, a few inches away from the tuber. Installing the stake early avoids the risk of piercing the tuber later. As the plant grows, loosely tie the main stem to the stake at various intervals.

To encourage more flowers rather than excessive foliage, use a fertilizer with a lower nitrogen content, such as one recommended for tomatoes. Begin fertilizing after the plant is established and about a foot tall. Reapply every three to four weeks throughout the growing season.

A technique known as “pinching” or “topping” can lead to a fuller, bushier plant with more flowering stems. When the dahlia has reached 12 to 18 inches in height and has at least three sets of leaves, use clean pruners to snip off the top few inches of the central stem. This action signals the plant to send out lateral branches from the lower leaf nodes, resulting in more blossoms.

Harvesting and Using Blooms

Cut the stems during the cooler parts of the day, either in the early morning or late evening. This prevents wilting because the flowers are at their most hydrated and robust during these cooler periods.

Harvest dahlias when the blooms are nearly or fully open, as they do not open significantly more once in a vase. Select flowers with long, strong stems, making the cut deep on the plant to encourage new growth. Immediately place the stems into a bucket of cool water to keep them hydrated.

After harvesting, re-cut the bottom of each stem at an angle and place them in a container of very hot, but not boiling, water for about an hour. This process helps the stems absorb water more efficiently. Following this treatment, transfer the flowers to a vase with fresh, cool water and a floral preservative.

Overwintering Tubers

In climates where winter temperatures drop below freezing, dahlia tubers must be dug up and stored to survive. The best time to do this is after the first hard frost has caused the plant’s foliage to turn black and die back. Cut the stalks down to a few inches above the ground before lifting.

Using a garden fork or spade, carefully dig around the plant with a wide berth to avoid damage and gently lift the clump from the soil. Shake off any large clumps of dirt, but do not wash the tubers. Allow the clump to dry and cure for several days in a sheltered location protected from sun, rain, and freezing temperatures.

After curing, gently brush off the remaining dry soil. You can divide the clumps at this stage or wait until spring. Place the tubers in a cardboard box or crate filled with a storage medium like peat moss or wood shavings, ensuring they are not touching. Store the container in a cool, dark, and dry location, like a basement, where the temperature remains between 40 and 50°F.