How to Grow and Care for Pothos Glacier

The Pothos Glacier, or Epipremnum aureum ‘Glacier’, is a compact and sought-after variety of pothos. It is appreciated for its distinct, slow-growing nature and attractive foliage, which features a variegation of creamy white, various shades of green, and flecks of silvery-grey. This plant’s smaller stature makes it a fitting choice for desktops, shelves, and hanging baskets. Its care requirements make it a popular selection for houseplant enthusiasts.

Identifying Pothos Glacier

Pothos Glacier is distinguished from similar varieties like ‘N’Joy’ and ‘Pearls and Jade’ by its smaller leaves and a more contained growth habit. The variegation is a primary identifier, presenting as large patches of creamy white framing darker green centers. It also includes green-on-green tonal shifts and subtle silvery-grey patches that are less common on its relatives.

Pothos ‘N’Joy’ has clearer, more defined borders between its solid green and white sections with little to no speckling. ‘Pearls and Jade’ exhibits more green speckles and splashes within its white variegation. Glacier has a softer, more blended appearance with its characteristic grey-green and silver tones, and its leaf shape is often a more uniform heart shape.

Pothos Glacier Care

Light

Pothos Glacier thrives in a location that provides several hours of bright, indirect sunlight each day. An east-facing window is often ideal, offering gentle morning sun that is not intense enough to scorch the leaves. Direct, harsh sunlight should be avoided, as it can cause brown patches on the delicate leaf tissue.

Soil

A well-draining and airy soil mix is necessary to prevent overwatering. A suitable potting medium can be created by combining standard indoor potting soil with a generous amount of perlite, with a one-to-one ratio being effective. This mixture ensures that water can drain freely while retaining enough moisture for the roots.

Water

Water the Pothos Glacier using the “dry out” method to avoid root rot. Before watering again, allow the top 2 to 3 inches of the soil to become completely dry. When it is time to water, do so thoroughly until water flows out of the pot’s drainage holes. After watering, empty any excess from the saucer to prevent the plant from sitting in standing water.

Temperature and Humidity

Pothos Glacier is well-suited to indoor environments, preferring temperatures between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 24 degrees Celsius). Protect it from cold drafts and sudden temperature drops by placing it away from drafty windows in winter. While it tolerates standard household humidity, it appreciates higher levels around 50%.

Fertilizer

To support growth during the spring and summer, the Pothos Glacier benefits from regular feeding. Apply a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer once a month, diluted to half the recommended strength to avoid burning the roots. Suspend fertilization during the fall and winter when the plant’s growth naturally slows.

Propagating Pothos Glacier

Propagating Pothos Glacier is a simple way to create new plants. Use stem cuttings from a healthy plant, selecting a vine with at least three to four nodes—the small brown bumps on the stem. Using clean, sharp scissors, make a cut just below a node.

Remove the lowest leaf or two to expose the nodes that will be submerged. You can root the cutting in water by placing the stem in a jar, ensuring the exposed nodes are underwater. Place the jar in bright, indirect light and change the water every few days. Roots should appear within a couple of weeks.

Once the new roots are one to two inches long, the cutting is ready for soil. Plant the rooted cutting in a small pot with a well-draining mix and water it well. Keep the soil consistently moist for the first couple of weeks to help it acclimate. Planting new starts back into the original pot creates a bushier appearance.

Common Problems and Solutions

A common issue with variegated plants like Pothos Glacier is the loss of variegation, or reverting. This occurs when the plant does not receive enough light and produces more chlorophyll to compensate. If you notice the white and silver patterns fading to solid green, move the plant to a location with brighter, indirect light.

Brown spots on the leaves can signal different problems. Dry, crispy spots may indicate low humidity or underwatering. Soft, dark spots could be a sign of overwatering or root rot. Brown patches can also be caused by sunburn from excessive direct sunlight. Adjust your watering, humidity, or light exposure to resolve these issues.

Leggy growth, characterized by long stems with sparse leaves, is also tied to insufficient light as the plant stretches toward a light source. To fix this, relocate the plant to a brighter spot and prune the leggy stems. Pruning encourages branching for a fuller shape, and the trimmed sections can be used for propagation.