How to Grow and Care for Philodendron Summer Glory
Learn the distinct characteristics of the Philodendron Summer Glory and the specific care practices required for its healthy, long-term growth.
Learn the distinct characteristics of the Philodendron Summer Glory and the specific care practices required for its healthy, long-term growth.
The Philodendron ‘Summer Glory’ is a hybrid developed in 2016 by aroid breeder LariAnn Garner. It is the result of a cross between Philodendron gloriosum and an unnamed Philodendron hybrid, created to be a durable and more cold-tolerant plant. Its popularity stems from its unique foliage and robust nature, and it became widely available through tissue culture around 2020.
The primary feature of Philodendron ‘Summer Glory’ is its large, heart-shaped leaves that undergo a color transformation. New leaves emerge in shades of coppery-pink or reddish-bronze and mature into a deep green with a semi-glossy finish. This allows a single plant to display a spectrum of tones.
Prominent veins appear as light green or purplish-pink against new foliage, and the cataphylls that protect new growth are a bold red. Unlike climbing philodendrons, ‘Summer Glory’ has a terrestrial, or crawling, growth habit. Its rhizome grows horizontally across the soil, which necessitates using a wider pot to accommodate its spread.
‘Summer Glory’ is often compared to its parent, Philodendron gloriosum. While both are crawlers with heart-shaped leaves, gloriosum foliage has a pronounced velvety texture, whereas ‘Summer Glory’ leaves are glossier. It is also confused with Philodendron melanochrysum, but the difference is clear, as melanochrysum is a climbing vine.
When compared to another crawler, Philodendron pastazanum, the petiole is the main differentiator. A ‘Summer Glory’ petiole has a distinct D-shape in cross-section, while a pastazanum petiole is more rounded and lacks the signature color-changing leaves.
This plant thrives in bright, indirect sunlight, such as near an east-facing window or a few feet from a south or west-facing window. Direct, harsh sunlight should be avoided as it can scorch the leaves. Insufficient light will not harm the plant but results in slower growth and less vibrant coloration in new leaves.
The soil for a crawling philodendron like ‘Summer Glory’ needs to be well-aerated and fast-draining to prevent water from sitting around the rhizome. A chunky aroid potting mix is suitable. You can create your own by combining orchid bark, perlite, and coco coir or peat moss, which provides structure for roots to breathe while retaining enough moisture.
Water the plant thoroughly, then allow the top few inches of soil to dry out before watering again. You can check the moisture level by inserting your finger two inches into the pot. This method ensures the roots have access to moisture without being constantly saturated, which can lead to root rot.
‘Summer Glory’ flourishes in warm and humid conditions, preferring temperatures between 18°C and 26°C (65°F to 90°F). Keep the plant away from cold drafts from windows or air conditioning vents. High humidity, between 60% and 80%, supports lush foliage. If your home is dry, use a humidifier, group plants together, or place the pot on a pebble tray with water.
During the spring and summer growing season, ‘Summer Glory’ benefits from regular feeding. A balanced liquid fertilizer applied once a month provides the nutrients for its large, colorful leaves. During fall and winter, reduce fertilization to every other month or pause it entirely. Always follow the dilution instructions on the packaging to avoid burning the roots.
Propagating ‘Summer Glory’ is done through stem cuttings from its crawling rhizome. Identify a healthy section of the rhizome that includes at least one node and a leaf. Using a clean, sharp tool, cut the rhizome just below the selected node.
The cutting can be rooted in a glass of water, moist sphagnum moss, or perlite. Place the cutting in a warm location with bright, indirect light and high humidity to encourage root development. Roots should form within four to six weeks. Once the roots are at least two to three inches long, the new plant is ready to be transplanted into a pot with a suitable aroid soil mix.
Yellowing leaves are often a sign of overwatering. If you notice yellowing, check the soil and adjust your watering schedule to allow it to dry more thoroughly between waterings. This can prevent root rot from developing.
Pests such as spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs can also be an issue. Regularly inspect the leaves, especially the undersides, for any signs of infestation. If pests are found, wipe the leaves with a cloth dipped in soapy water or apply neem oil.
If your plant’s growth seems stunted, it may indicate insufficient light or nutrients. Move the plant to a brighter location or use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season to encourage more vigorous growth.