How to Grow and Care for Philodendron Bipennifolium Aurea

The Philodendron bipennifolium Aurea, often called the Golden Violin, is a houseplant known for its unique foliage. The most notable feature is the vibrant, golden-yellow color of its new leaves, which emerge a neon yellow and soften to a chartreuse green as they age. This shifting color makes it a dynamic and visually interesting addition to any indoor plant collection.

Philodendron Bipennifolium Aurea Care

Light

The intensity of light directly influences the Golden Violin’s leaf coloration. To maintain the signature yellow hue, providing bright, indirect sunlight is necessary. An ideal location is a few feet from an east-facing window or a brighter south or west-facing window filtered by a sheer curtain. Insufficient light will cause the plant to produce greener leaves, losing the ‘Aurea’ characteristic, while direct sun will scorch the foliage.

Soil

This philodendron thrives in a chunky, porous growing medium that mimics the forest floor and allows for excellent drainage and airflow to the root system. You can create a high-quality aroid mix by combining equal parts of peat or coco coir, orchid bark, and perlite or pumice. This composition retains some moisture without becoming waterlogged, which is a primary defense against root rot. Using a standard, dense potting soil is not recommended as it holds too much water and can lead to root suffocation.

Water

Watering frequency should be determined by the soil’s moisture level rather than a fixed schedule. Use the “soak and dry” method by watering the plant thoroughly until water freely drains from the bottom. Afterwards, allow the top 2 to 3 inches of the soil to completely dry out before watering again. Overwatering is a common issue identified by yellowing lower leaves, so it is always better to err on the side of underwatering.

Temperature and Humidity

As a tropical plant, the Philodendron bipennifolium Aurea prefers warm and humid conditions. It grows best in temperatures between 70-80°F and should be protected from temperatures that drop below 60°F, as cold drafts can shock the plant. While it can adapt to average household humidity, it will flourish with levels around 60% or more. To increase humidity, you can group it with other plants, place it on a pebble tray, or use a humidifier.

Fertilizer

To support its growth during the spring and summer, regular feeding is beneficial. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer for houseplants, diluted to half the recommended strength. Fertilize the plant once a month from spring through early fall, which is its active growing period. Reduce feeding during the winter when the plant’s growth naturally slows to avoid fertilizer burn.

Growth Habit and Support

The Philodendron bipennifolium Aurea is a natural climber, using its aerial roots in the wild to climb trees. Replicating this vertical growth at home is beneficial, so providing a support structure like a moss pole or trellis is encouraged. When the plant is given a surface to climb, it directs its energy into producing larger foliage. The leaves will increase in size and develop the more pronounced “horse-head” shape characteristic of a mature specimen. Without support, the plant’s stems may become leggy and the leaves will likely remain smaller.

To encourage climbing, gently attach the main stem to the support using soft plant ties or clips. As the plant grows, its aerial roots will embed themselves into the pole, especially if it is a moss pole that is kept moist. This attachment provides stability and encourages vigorous upward growth.

Propagating Philodendron Bipennifolium Aurea

Propagating this philodendron is done using stem cuttings. The most important part of the cutting is the node, a small bump on the stem where leaves and aerial roots emerge, as it contains the cells for new growth. Select a healthy vine and use a clean, sharp tool to make a cut about an inch below a node. Your cutting should have at least one leaf and one or two nodes for the best chance of success.

Once you have your cutting, you can root it in several mediums. Placing the cutting in a jar of water is a popular method; ensure the node is submerged and change the water weekly. Alternatively, you can place the cutting in a container of moist sphagnum moss or perlite. Place the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light, and roots should form within a few weeks. After a robust root system has developed, the new plant can be potted in a suitable aroid soil mix.

Common Problems

If new leaves are emerging green instead of gold, the cause is almost always insufficient light. This phenomenon, known as reversion, is the plant’s response to low light levels. To correct this, move the plant to a location where it will receive more bright, indirect light.

This philodendron can be susceptible to common pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, and thrips. Inspect your plant regularly, paying close attention to the undersides of leaves. Spider mites create fine webbing, while mealybugs appear as small, white, cottony masses, and thrips cause stippling on the leaves. If pests are found, isolate the plant and treat it by wiping the leaves with a cloth dipped in a solution of water and insecticidal soap.

Leaf blemishes can also indicate an issue with watering or humidity. If you notice the edges of the leaves becoming brown and crispy, it is likely a sign of low ambient humidity or underwatering. Adjusting your watering schedule and environmental conditions will resolve these issues.