How to Grow and Care for Philo Red Anderson

The Philodendron Red Anderson is a hybrid houseplant with deep green leaves marked by splashes of burgundy-red and shades of creamy white or soft pink. The variegation appears in marbled patterns or distinct blocks of color. This is a climbing variety that develops long stems over time that benefit from support. Introduced in the early 2000s, it has become a sought-after specimen for its coloration.

Red Anderson Care Essentials

Light

This plant thrives in bright, indirect sunlight. An ideal placement is near a window where the sun’s rays are filtered, as direct exposure can scorch the leaves. Sustained, bright, indirect light is also what encourages the most vibrant red and cream variegation. Insufficient light will slow growth, cause smaller leaves, and result in less color.

Soil

A well-draining and airy potting medium is necessary to prevent water from stagnating around the roots. Most commercial aroid mixes work well, or you can create your own by combining potting soil with amendments like orchid bark, perlite, and coco coir. These components help ensure oxygen can reach the roots.

Water

Water thoroughly only when the top one to two inches of soil feel dry. When watering, allow it to flow freely through the drainage holes to ensure the entire root ball is hydrated. This method prevents the soil from becoming waterlogged, which is a primary cause of root rot.

Temperature and Humidity

Philodendron Red Anderson performs well in household temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C to 27°C), but should be kept away from drafts or sudden temperature fluctuations. While it tolerates average indoor humidity, it flourishes in more humid conditions around 70%. If your home is dry, use a humidifier or place the plant on a pebble tray with water to increase ambient moisture.

Fertilizer

To support its growth during the spring and summer, a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer applied about once a month provides necessary nutrients. During the fall and winter, reduce fertilization frequency as the plant’s growth naturally slows.

Managing Reversion

Reversion is when a stem begins producing leaves that have lost their variegation, turning all-green or all-red. This can happen spontaneously. If a stem consistently produces reverted leaves, that part of the plant is no longer expressing its variegated genetics.

To manage this, prune the reverted sections. Cut the stem back to the last leaf that showed good variegation to encourage a new, colorful growth point. This intervention redirects the plant’s energy away from the less desirable growth.

Propagation Methods

Propagation is done with stem cuttings, which must include a node—the bump on the stem where leaves and aerial roots emerge. New roots form from the node, so a cutting cannot develop into a new plant without one.

Select a healthy vine with at least one leaf and a node, then use a clean blade to cut just below it. The cutting can be rooted in a jar of water (change the water every few days) or placed in moist sphagnum moss or perlite. You can also plant the cutting directly into soil, ensuring the node is buried.

Place the new cutting in a warm spot with bright, indirect light. Roots should establish within several weeks.

Solving Common Problems

Leggy growth, with long stretches of bare stem between leaves, is a sign of insufficient light. The plant is stretching to find a brighter source. Move it to a location with more indirect light to encourage compact new growth.

Browning or crispy leaf tips are caused by low humidity, mineral buildup from tap water, or inconsistent watering. Increase humidity or use filtered or distilled water to address this. Avoid letting the plant swing between being too dry and too wet.

Watch for common pests like spider mites and mealybugs. Manage them by wiping the leaves with a damp cloth or by applying insecticidal soap or neem oil according to product instructions.