How to Grow and Care for Kingcup Cactus
Learn to grow the cold-hardy Kingcup Cactus. Our guide details the proper sun, soil, and the crucial cool, dry winter rest needed for its vibrant red blooms.
Learn to grow the cold-hardy Kingcup Cactus. Our guide details the proper sun, soil, and the crucial cool, dry winter rest needed for its vibrant red blooms.
The Kingcup Cactus, Echinocereus triglochidiatus, is also known as the Claret Cup or Hedgehog Cactus. It originates from the deserts of the Southwestern United States and northern Mexico. This species is recognized for its red-to-orange flowers that contrast against its green stems, making it a popular choice for gardeners.
The Kingcup Cactus grows in a mounding habit, forming dense clusters of stems that create cushions over a meter in diameter. Individual stems are cylindrical, bluish-green, and feature five to twelve prominent ribs. These stems range from 5 to 40 centimeters in length.
Spine density varies, with some plants being densely spiny while others have very few. Spines emerge from areoles, which are small, cushion-like structures on the stems. The flowers are funnel-shaped, about 8 to 9 centimeters wide, with waxy, scarlet or orange-red petals. These blooms are a food source for pollinators like hummingbirds.
The Kingcup Cactus is well-suited for rock gardens and xeriscaping due to its drought tolerance. It requires a location that receives full, direct sun to thrive. The soil must be well-draining and gritty, so heavy or clay-based soils should be avoided. Amending native soil with sand or gravel helps achieve the necessary drainage for healthy roots.
Echinocereus triglochidiatus has notable cold hardiness, with some varieties tolerating temperatures as low as -10°F (-23°C). This allows it to be grown outdoors in a wider range of climates than many other cacti. To survive freezing temperatures, the plant must be kept dry. Wet soil combined with a hard freeze will lead to root rot, so the plant should be in a location that does not collect water during winter.
When grown indoors, place the Kingcup Cactus in the sunniest spot available, like a south-facing window. Use a commercial cactus potting mix amended with perlite, pumice, or coarse sand. This creates the loose, airy medium required to prevent waterlogged roots and improve drainage.
During the spring and summer growing season, water the plant deeply, but only after the soil has completely dried. In the fall and winter, reduce watering significantly to prevent rot during its dormant period. Provide just enough water to keep the stems from shriveling.
The primary trigger for the Kingcup Cactus to produce flowers is a period of winter dormancy. This rest period mimics its native habitat and signals the plant to prepare for its spring blooming cycle. To encourage this, expose the cactus to a cool and dry environment from late fall through winter.
For dormancy to be effective, keep the plant in conditions below 50°F (10°C) and withhold most water. This combination helps the plant set flower buds. Once spring arrives and temperatures warm, gradually increase watering and provide maximum sun exposure to support bloom development.
Propagating from offsets, or pups, is a common method. These small plants grow from the base of the parent. To propagate, remove a healthy pup with a clean knife or by twisting it off, wearing heavy gloves for protection from the spines.
After separation, set the offset in a dry, shaded place for several days to allow the wound to form a callus. This process prevents rot. Once callused, plant the pup in a pot with a dry, well-draining cactus mix. Do not water for the first week or two to allow roots to form.
To grow from seed, sow them in spring on the surface of a shallow container filled with a sandy, well-draining soil mix. Cover the seeds lightly with a thin layer of sand or fine grit.
Keep the soil lightly moist and warm to encourage germination, which occurs in about two weeks. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them into individual pots. A seed-grown plant will take several years to reach flowering size.
Root rot is the most common issue, caused by overwatering or poor drainage. The solution is to reduce watering and ensure the soil dries out completely between waterings. For container plants, using a gritty, porous soil mix and an unglazed pot helps prevent excess moisture.
Insufficient sunlight causes etiolation, which is weak, stretched, and pale new growth. To resolve this, move the plant to a sunnier location that provides at least six hours of direct sun.
Pests are not a common issue, but watch for mealybugs or scale insects, which appear as small white, cottony deposits on the stems. For small infestations, dab the pests with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Use an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray for more widespread problems.