How to Grow and Care for Hoya Leucantha
Learn to grow a healthy Hoya leucantha. This guide offers practical advice on care to support its fuzzy foliage and encourage its star-shaped white flowers.
Learn to grow a healthy Hoya leucantha. This guide offers practical advice on care to support its fuzzy foliage and encourage its star-shaped white flowers.
Native to the tropical lowlands of New Guinea, Hoya leucantha is a vining plant with distinctive, color-changing foliage. New growth often emerges with a reddish hue, transitions to yellow, and settles into a deep green with a thin, papery texture. Its Greek name means “white-flowered,” referencing the star-shaped blooms it produces. The plant’s draping growth habit makes it well-suited for hanging baskets where its vines can cascade.
This species thrives in bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is often ideal, but it should be protected from harsh afternoon sun, which can scorch its leaves. Ample filtered light maintains foliage health and encourages the vibrant coloration of new growth.
This plant is susceptible to root rot, so an airy, well-draining potting mix is necessary. A chunky blend containing orchid bark, perlite, and coco coir replicates its natural epiphytic habitat by providing excellent aeration and drainage.
Follow a “drench and dry” watering approach. Water the plant thoroughly, letting excess drain away, and then allow the soil to dry out significantly between waterings. You can check the top inch or two of soil to gauge moisture. Reduce watering frequency during the fall and winter when the plant’s growth slows.
This hoya performs well in household temperatures between 60°F and 85°F (16°C to 29°C) and appreciates humidity around 60% or higher. During the spring and summer growing season, apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength every four to six weeks. Suspend fertilizing during the fall and winter dormant period.
Hoya leucantha needs to reach maturity before it will flower, which can take a few years for a young plant. Providing sufficient bright, indirect light is the most influential factor in prompting blooms. Without enough light, the plant will focus its energy on leaf growth instead of flowers.
Allowing the Hoya to become slightly root-bound can also stimulate flowering. Once the plant flowers, do not cut the long, leafless tendrils that emerge. Flowers grow on woody spurs called peduncles, and the plant re-blooms from these same spurs each year. Removing them prevents future flowers from forming in that spot.
The flowers are white and star-shaped with a cream or yellow center and may have a subtle, sweet fragrance. They sometimes only open fully at night or in the early morning. Once buds have formed, maintain consistent care, as significant fluctuations in watering or humidity can cause them to drop before opening.
The most successful propagation method is with stem cuttings taken during the spring or summer growing season. Using clean shears, take a 10-15 centimeter cutting from a healthy vine. Ensure the cutting includes at least one or two nodes, which are the bumps on the stem where roots will form.
You can root the cutting in a glass of water with the nodes submerged, where roots should form within a few weeks. Another method is to plant the cutting directly into a rooting medium like sphagnum moss or a well-draining soil mix. To reduce the risk of rot, you can let the cut end of the stem callus for a few hours before planting.
Place the cutting in a warm location with bright, indirect light. If rooting in a medium, keep it moist but not waterlogged. Once a robust root system has formed, which you can test by gently tugging the cutting, it can be moved to a pot and cared for as a mature plant.
Yellowing leaves are a common sign of overwatering. If you notice yellowing, especially on older leaves, check the soil and allow it to dry more thoroughly between waterings. Using a well-draining soil mix is the best way to prevent roots from sitting in excess moisture, which leads to root rot.
Pests like mealybugs and aphids can become a problem. Mealybugs look like small, white, cottony clusters, while aphids are small, soft-bodied insects. Manage small infestations by dabbing pests with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or by spraying with insecticidal soap. Inspecting your plant regularly helps catch these issues early.
A lack of new growth can be due to insufficient light, so moving the plant to a brighter location may help. It is also normal for growth to slow or stop during its dormancy period in fall and winter. Growth will resume in the spring with warmer temperatures and longer daylight hours.