How to Grow and Care for Haworth’s Aeonium
Learn to grow a thriving Haworth's Aeonium by understanding its unique seasonal rhythm and providing the right care during its active and dormant phases.
Learn to grow a thriving Haworth's Aeonium by understanding its unique seasonal rhythm and providing the right care during its active and dormant phases.
Aeonium haworthii, known as Haworth’s Aeonium or Pinwheel Aeonium, is a branching succulent native to the Canary Islands. This plant is recognized for its rosettes of spoon-shaped, waxy leaves that form at the end of its stems, resembling a pinwheel. The leaves are pale green, often with reddish margins that become more pronounced with sun exposure.
Over time, Aeonium haworthii develops a shrub-like form with multiple stems creating a mounded shape. This growth habit makes it a versatile plant for container gardens, rockeries, and as a houseplant. Each branch terminates in one of the signature rosettes.
Proper light is important for the health and appearance of Haworth’s Aeonium. When grown indoors, place it in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of bright, indirect sunlight daily. A south-facing window is suitable, though direct sun can scorch the leaves. Outdoors, the plant does well in partial sun but benefits from afternoon shade in hot climates to prevent leaf burn.
This succulent requires a well-draining soil mix to prevent root issues from excess moisture. A sandy loam or a standard potting mix amended with materials like perlite, coarse sand, or pumice provides the necessary aeration. While it is a succulent, it needs more moisture than many desert cacti, so a mix for cacti may need to be amended for better water retention.
Water Haworth’s Aeonium using the “soak and dry” method. Water the plant thoroughly until it runs from the pot’s drainage holes, then allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again. The plant’s water needs change with the seasons; it requires more frequent watering during its active growing period in fall, winter, and spring. During its summer dormancy, watering should be reduced.
This plant prefers mild temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 24 degrees Celsius). It is not frost-hardy and must be protected from freezing conditions. In regions with cold winters, it is best grown in containers that can be moved indoors. Aeonium haworthii is considered non-toxic to cats and dogs.
Many aeoniums, including Aeonium haworthii, undergo dormancy during the hottest parts of the year, which is typically summer. This is a survival mechanism that helps the plant conserve water and energy. Recognizing the signs of dormancy can prevent a grower from thinking their plant is unhealthy.
During dormancy, the rosettes will tighten, with the leaves curling inward to protect the central growing point. The plant may also shed some of its lower leaves, which is a normal part of the process. It is important to reduce watering frequency during this time, as the plant’s slowed metabolism makes it susceptible to root rot.
Propagate Haworth’s Aeonium with stem cuttings during its active growing season in spring or autumn. Use a clean, sharp knife to cut a section a few inches long that includes a full rosette. Allow the cut end to dry and form a callus by placing it in a dry, shaded location for several days; this step helps prevent rot.
Once callused, plant the cutting into a small pot filled with a well-draining soil mix. Insert the stem just deep enough for it to stand upright. Place the pot in bright, indirect light and water lightly, keeping the soil only slightly moist until roots develop.
Rooting occurs within a few weeks, which can be confirmed by new growth or gentle resistance when the cutting is lightly tugged.
Mealybugs are a frequent pest, appearing as white, cotton-like masses in the tight spaces between leaves or on the stems. A minor infestation can be handled by dabbing the insects with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. More significant issues may require treatment with an insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Root rot arises from overwatering and poorly draining soil. When the soil stays wet, roots decay, which can lead to the collapse of the plant. Symptoms include a mushy stem base and yellowing, wilting leaves. Once root rot is advanced, the plant is difficult to save.
A plant not receiving enough light may become leggy, a condition known as etiolation. This is characterized by stretched stems with sparse spacing between the leaves. To fix this, move the plant to a brighter location. The leggy top can be cut off and propagated to create a new, more compact plant.