How to Grow and Care for Ghost Lily

The ghost lily, Lycoris squamigera, is also commonly called the surprise lily or naked lady, names that hint at its unusual growth habit. These plants produce large, fragrant, trumpet-shaped flowers in shades of rosy pink, often with hints of lavender along the petal edges. The reputation of the ghost lily stems from the unexpected appearance of its blooms, which emerge in the late summer garden.

The Unique Growth Cycle

The ghost lily has a peculiar, asynchronous growth cycle. In the spring, the plant first produces a lush cluster of strap-like, dark green leaves that have a hint of blue. This foliage, which resembles that of a daffodil, gathers solar energy throughout the spring months, storing it in the bulb below the soil surface to fuel the later floral display.

As summer begins, the leaves wither and die back completely, leaving no visible trace of the plant above the ground. This disappearance often leads gardeners to believe the plant has perished. The bare patch of soil remains throughout the hottest parts of the season, a period of dormancy for the bulb resting beneath.

In late summer or early fall, the plant reappears. Seemingly overnight, bare, leafless stalks, known as scapes, shoot up from the earth, growing to a height of 18 to 24 inches. Each naked stalk is then topped with a cluster of four to eight fragrant, pink, trumpet-shaped flowers. This sudden eruption of blooms on a bare stem is what earns it the names “naked lady” and “surprise lily.”

How to Plant Ghost Lilies

The ideal time to plant ghost lily bulbs is in the late summer or fall, corresponding with their natural dormant period. This allows the bulbs to establish roots before the ground freezes. These bulbs are long-lived and dislike being disturbed, so selecting a permanent location is an important first step.

For optimal flowering, choose a site that receives full sun to partial shade. While they can tolerate some shade, more sunlight leads to more prolific blooming. The soil must be well-draining to prevent the bulbs from rotting, especially during their summer dormancy. Ghost lilies work well in mixed perennial borders, where the foliage of neighboring summer-blooming plants can fill the visual gap left behind when the lily’s leaves die back.

The bulbs should be set so the top, or neck, of the bulb is just at or slightly below the soil surface. Plant them about 4 to 6 inches deep, though in colder climates, slightly deeper planting can offer more winter protection. For an impactful display, plant the bulbs in clusters of at least three to five, spacing individual bulbs about 6 inches apart to give them room to multiply.

Ongoing Care for Established Plants

Once established, ghost lilies are low-maintenance plants. During the spring when the foliage is actively growing, they benefit from moderately moist soil. This is the period when the bulb is storing energy, so consistent watering helps support healthy leaf development.

After the foliage dies back in early summer, the plant enters dormancy, and its water needs decrease. It is best to reduce supplemental watering during this time, as the bulb prefers drier summer conditions. Overwatering when the plant is dormant can lead to bulb rot. The plant is quite resilient and can tolerate dry spells during this phase.

Fertilizing is not a major requirement. If you choose to fertilize, a single application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the early spring as new leaves emerge is sufficient. After the flowers fade in the fall, allow the stalks to yellow and die back naturally before removing them; the plant reabsorbs nutrients from the decaying stalk.

Common Issues and Important Considerations

A frequent concern with ghost lilies is a failure to bloom. This can be caused by several factors, including bulbs that are planted too deeply in the soil. Too much shade can also inhibit flowering, as can the shock of being recently transplanted; the bulbs may take a couple of years to re-establish and bloom again.

Over time, a single bulb will multiply and form a dense clump. Excessive overcrowding can lead to competition for resources and a reduction in flowering. To remedy this, the clumps can be divided every few years. The best time to dig up and separate the bulbs is in the fall after flowering has finished, or in the spring after the foliage has died back.

Be aware that all parts of the Lycoris squamigera plant are toxic if ingested. The bulbs contain alkaloids that can cause symptoms such as vomiting and diarrhea in both humans and pets. Due to this toxicity, the plants are resistant to browsing from deer and rodents. This makes them a durable choice for gardens where these animals are a problem.