How to Grow and Care for Elephant Staghorn Fern
A comprehensive guide to the Elephant Staghorn Fern, focusing on its distinct needs. Learn proper techniques for watering, mounting, and long-term plant health.
A comprehensive guide to the Elephant Staghorn Fern, focusing on its distinct needs. Learn proper techniques for watering, mounting, and long-term plant health.
The Elephant Staghorn Fern, or Platycerium elephantotis, is an epiphytic plant native to the tropical regions of Africa. It grows on tree trunks, absorbing moisture and nutrients from the air and rain. Its common name comes from its large fronds that resemble an elephant’s ears. This fern has a distinct seasonal growth pattern influenced by its native habitat’s wet and dry seasons, setting it apart from some relatives.
Platycerium elephantotis produces two types of fronds: sterile and fertile. The sterile (or basal) fronds are large, round, and cup-like, growing against the mounting surface to protect the root ball. These shields start green with prominent, raised veins. Over time, older shield fronds naturally turn brown and papery, forming a protective layer that traps water and organic matter for the roots.
Unlike the forked fronds of other staghorns, the fertile fronds of P. elephantotis are broad, undivided, and hang downwards. These large, leathery green “ears” can grow up to 30 inches long and feature a single large spore patch on their underside for reproduction.
The Elephant Staghorn Fern requires bright, indirect light. An east-facing window with gentle morning sun or a well-lit room away from direct sun is ideal. Harsh, direct sunlight will scorch the fronds, causing brown patches. Insufficient light slows growth and may prevent the development of its large fronds. You can filter intense light with a sheer curtain to provide the right balance.
Unlike many staghorns, P. elephantotis does best when kept consistently moist but not waterlogged. The best method is to submerge the entire plant and its mount in room-temperature water for 10-20 minutes until the growing medium is saturated. After soaking, allow the plant to drain completely before rehanging it to prevent water from collecting at the base, which causes rot. Check the moisture by touching the growing medium; water when it begins to feel slightly dry, often about once a week.
This fern flourishes in warm, humid conditions, preferring temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Protect it from cold drafts and sudden temperature drops. To increase ambient moisture, you can group it with other plants, use a humidifier, or place it on a tray of pebbles filled with water. Consistent ambient humidity is more effective for its health than regular misting.
During the active growing season in spring and summer, feed the fern monthly. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, like one for orchids, diluted to half-strength. Apply the fertilizer solution during its regular watering. Suspend fertilizing during the fall and winter when the plant’s growth naturally slows.
Platycerium elephantotis is best mounted on a surface that allows for air circulation around its roots. To mount one, you need a wood or cork plaque, sphagnum moss, and fishing line. Create a mound of pre-soaked sphagnum moss on the plaque and place the fern’s root ball on top. Ensure the basal fronds face outward and wrap the fishing line around the root ball and plaque to secure it.
Alternatively, you can grow this fern in a hanging basket. Use an airy, well-draining potting medium, such as an orchid bark mix with sphagnum moss and perlite. The basket must have ample drainage holes. When potting, do not cover the basal fronds with the mix, as they need exposure to light and air.
The most straightforward propagation method is separating offsets, or “pups,” that develop from the root system. Wait until a pup is a few inches in diameter with its own small shield fronds and a developing root system before removal. To separate a pup, use a clean, sharp knife to cut it from the main plant, ensuring the division includes roots and at least one shield frond.
The new pup can then be mounted on its own small plaque. Propagating from spores is a more complex process better suited for experienced growers.
If the green, fertile fronds become brown and crispy at the edges, it may be a sign of underwatering or low humidity. Address this by watering more thoroughly and increasing ambient moisture. These ferns can attract pests like scale insects and mealybugs. Scale appears as small, brown bumps on the fronds, while mealybugs look like white cottony masses. Treat individual pests with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or apply insecticidal soap according to the product’s instructions.
Root rot is caused by overwatering and poor air circulation. Symptoms include a foul smell from the root area and wilting, yellowing fronds. Following proper watering and mounting techniques is the best prevention.