How to Grow and Care for Crape Jasmine
This guide provides the essential knowledge for cultivating a lush Crape Jasmine, from establishing ideal growing conditions to ensuring long-term health.
This guide provides the essential knowledge for cultivating a lush Crape Jasmine, from establishing ideal growing conditions to ensuring long-term health.
The crape jasmine (Tabernaemontana divaricata) is a popular garden shrub known for its ornamental appeal. Its brilliant white, pinwheel-shaped flowers contrast with lustrous, deep green foliage. This versatile plant can be used as a screening hedge, a standalone specimen, or a potted feature on a patio. Its dense, evergreen nature provides year-round structure to garden designs.
Crape jasmine flowers are composed of five waxy, white petals arranged in a spiral or pinwheel shape, and can be single or double-flowered depending on the cultivar. The plant grows into a dense, rounded shrub, reaching a height of six to ten feet with a spread of three to six feet. Although it is called crape jasmine, it is not a true jasmine. It is also known by other common names, including:
The shrub performs well in conditions from full sun to partial shade. Planting in a location with filtered shade often results in the best-looking foliage, though a sunnier location will encourage a higher volume of blooms. In shadier spots, the plant will still grow densely and produce flowers.
Crape jasmine thrives in well-draining, moist, and acidic soil that is rich in organic matter. Planting in alkaline soils, often found near concrete foundations, can cause issues. Amending the soil with compost can improve its organic content and structure.
Consistent moisture is important when the plant is establishing its root system, and the soil should be kept evenly moist but not waterlogged. Once well-established, crape jasmine has a reasonable tolerance for drier conditions and will require less frequent watering. Applying a layer of mulch around the base helps retain soil moisture and reduces the need for irrigation.
Crape jasmine is suited for warm climates and grows as an evergreen perennial in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11, tolerating high humidity. In regions with freezing temperatures, a hard freeze can damage the plant or kill it to the ground, though it often recovers. Gardeners in colder zones can grow it in large containers that are moved indoors or to a protected area during winter.
During the growing season, a regular feeding schedule supports healthy foliage and flowering. A balanced, all-purpose fertilizer with a 10-10-10 ratio can be applied every four to six weeks. Alternatively, use a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants to help maintain the proper soil chemistry, especially if the soil is slightly alkaline.
Pruning is performed to manage the shrub’s size, encourage a fuller form, and remove dead or damaged branches. Shaping the plant helps maintain its rounded appearance for foundation plantings or formal hedges. Some gardeners also trim the lower branches to train the shrub into a small tree form.
The best time to prune is after the main flowering period has concluded to avoid removing new flower buds. When pruning for shape or size, stems can be cut back by about one-third. Making selective cuts to thin out crowded areas will also improve air circulation within the plant.
Crape jasmine can be affected by sap-sucking insects like aphids, scale, and whiteflies. These pests feed on the plant’s juices, causing leaves to curl or discolor, and can lead to sooty mold, a black fungus that grows on the honeydew they excrete.
Another common issue is chlorosis, which appears as a yellowing of the leaves while the veins remain green. This is a symptom of a nutrient deficiency, typically iron, caused by a soil pH that is too high (alkaline). An alkaline soil makes it difficult for the plant to absorb iron. Addressing the soil’s acidity or applying a chelated iron supplement can correct the problem.
New crape jasmine plants are best created through stem cuttings during the active growing season in spring or summer. Select a healthy, non-flowering stem and take a cutting about six inches long, making the cut just below a leaf node. Remove the leaves from the lower half of the stem to prevent moisture loss.
Dipping the cut end into a rooting hormone can increase the chances of success. Plant the cutting into a pot with a moist, well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat and perlite. Covering the pot with a plastic bag helps maintain the high humidity needed for roots to form.