How to Grow and Care for Club Moss Plant
Learn to cultivate club moss, an ancient fern ally often mistaken for true moss. Replicate its native forest floor conditions for successful growth at home.
Learn to cultivate club moss, an ancient fern ally often mistaken for true moss. Replicate its native forest floor conditions for successful growth at home.
Club mosses are ancient, evergreen plants that offer a unique, prehistoric aesthetic. They belong to a group of plants called lycophytes, which are considered fern allies. These plants are not true mosses; they possess a vascular system for transporting water and nutrients, a feature that actual mosses lack. Their lineage is ancient, with fossil records showing their tree-like ancestors grew over 100 feet tall during the Carboniferous period.
Today’s club mosses are much smaller, spreading through creeping rhizomes that run horizontally just below the ground’s surface. This growth habit often results in dense, carpet-like mats. Their appeal comes from their finely textured, scale-like or needle-like leaves that cover the stems, giving them a primitive look unlike most common houseplants.
One of the most recognizable groups is the tree club mosses, which resemble miniature evergreen trees. Ground Pine (Dendrolycopodium obscurum) is a prime example, with upright, branching stems that look like tiny pine or cedar trees. This variety has a distinct, bottlebrush-like appearance and spreads via underground rhizomes, with the tree-like structures emerging periodically.
Another frequently encountered type is the running club moss, such as Stag’s-horn Clubmoss (Lycopodium clavatum). This species is characterized by its long, creeping stems that run along the ground, rooting at intervals. From these runners, it sends up short, erect branches covered in scale-like leaves. The “stag’s horn” name comes from the forked tips of the fertile branches, which bear the club-shaped spore-producing structures called strobili.
It is also common to find plants from the genus Selaginella sold under the name “club moss.” While botanically different and more accurately called spike mosses, they share a similar look and have nearly identical care requirements. Varieties like Selaginella kraussiana, or Spikemoss, form dense, low-growing mats of finely textured foliage, making them a popular choice for terrariums.
Proper lighting is a significant factor in successfully growing club moss. These plants naturally grow on forest floors, where they receive dappled sunlight. They thrive in bright, indirect light, so an east-facing window or a spot a few feet from a west- or south-facing window is ideal.
Avoid direct, intense sunlight, as it will scorch the delicate foliage, causing it to turn brown. If you notice the color of your club moss fading or yellowing, it may be receiving too much light. Conversely, if growth appears sparse and leggy, it likely needs a brighter location.
Consistent moisture is the most important aspect of club moss care. The soil should be kept evenly moist at all times, similar to a damp sponge, but never waterlogged. Allowing the soil to dry out completely, even once, can cause significant dieback from which the plant may not recover.
Club mosses can be sensitive to the chemicals in tap water. Using distilled, rainwater, or filtered water is a safer alternative that prevents mineral buildup in the soil and chemical burn on the roots. Reduce watering slightly during the winter months when the plant’s growth naturally slows.
The right soil composition supports the plant’s need for consistent moisture without leading to root rot. Club mosses prefer an acidic, well-draining, yet moisture-retentive potting medium. A mix designed for ferns can be a good starting point, but creating your own often yields better results.
A combination of one part peat moss, one part perlite, and one part sphagnum moss creates an ideal environment. This blend provides moisture retention and the acidic conditions these plants favor, while perlite ensures adequate drainage and aeration. Repotting is only necessary when the plant becomes root-bound, every two to three years.
High humidity is required for club mosses. These plants are native to damp woodlands and will quickly decline in the dry air found in most homes. Browning or crispy leaf tips are a classic sign that the ambient humidity is too low. Aim for a humidity level of 60% or higher.
The most effective way to provide this is by placing the plant in a terrarium, which naturally traps moisture. You can also use a humidifier or place the plant on a pebble tray filled with water. Grouping it with other humidity-loving plants can also help create a more humid microclimate.
The most straightforward method for propagating club moss is through division, best performed in the spring. Because these plants grow from spreading rhizomes, a mature clump can be easily separated into multiple smaller plants. This process not only creates new plants but can also rejuvenate an older specimen.
To divide a club moss, carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently tease apart the root ball. Identify a section that has a healthy cluster of stems and its own established root system. Use a clean, sharp knife to cut through the rhizomes connecting this section to the main plant, ensuring each new division has enough roots to support it.
Pot each new division into its own container filled with the appropriate acidic, moisture-retentive soil mix. Water the new plants thoroughly and place them in a location with high humidity and indirect light. Keeping them under a plastic dome or in a terrarium for the first few weeks can increase the chances of successful establishment.
While club mosses reproduce via spores in nature, this method is exceptionally difficult and slow for the home gardener. The process requires sterile conditions and a complex life cycle, so division remains the most practical method.
One of the most common problems encountered is the browning or crisping of foliage, particularly at the tips. This is almost always a result of environmental conditions. The primary cause is low humidity or inconsistent watering where the soil is allowed to dry out. To fix this, increase ambient humidity and ensure your watering routine is consistent.
If the issue persists, consider the type of water being used, as tap water with high mineral content can cause leaf burn. Slow or stunted growth is another issue that can be frustrating. This is often related to either insufficient light or improper soil conditions. While these plants need protection from direct sun, they still require enough bright, indirect light to photosynthesize.
An inappropriate soil mix can also hinder development. If the soil is too alkaline or compacted, the root system will struggle. Confirm the plant is in an acidic, well-draining medium. If growth remains slow, a very small dose of highly diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer can be applied once or twice during the growing season.
Beyond their ornamental value, club mosses are well-suited for use in closed terrariums and vivariums. Their love for high humidity and low light makes them a perfect match for these enclosed environments. They create a lush, green carpet that mimics a miniature forest floor, complementing other terrarium inhabitants like ferns and mosses.
Historically, the spores of club moss, known as Lycopodium powder, have fascinating applications. These spores are extremely fine and hydrophobic, meaning they repel water. This property led to their use as a coating for pills to prevent them from sticking together and as a powder for skin rashes.
The spores are also highly flammable due to their high fat content. When dispersed into the air, they can be ignited to create a brilliant, rapid flash of light. This property was utilized for early flash photography and for creating special effects in theatrical productions. Today, this powder is still used in science demonstrations to illustrate the principles of a dust explosion.