How to Grow and Care for Cataleya Orchids

The Cattleya orchid, often called the “Queen of Orchids,” is a popular and historically significant plant, though its name is sometimes misspelled “cataleya.” Native to Central and South America, these orchids gained popularity for their use in corsages. They are known for their large, fragrant flowers and flamboyant colors, making them a standout in any collection. The genus is diverse, with flowers ranging from vibrant purples and pinks to pristine whites and spotted hybrids.

Cattleya Characteristics and Types

As epiphytes, Cattleyas naturally grow on trees, meaning their roots require excellent drainage and air exposure. Their structure is centered around pseudobulbs, which are fleshy stems that store water and nutrients to survive dry periods. From their base emerge thick, white roots designed to cling to surfaces and absorb moisture.

The genus is divided into two main groups: unifoliate and bifoliate. Unifoliate Cattleyas produce a single, broad leaf from the top of each pseudobulb. In contrast, bifoliate types produce two or three narrower leaves and often require slightly more light.

The flowers are known for their size, patterns, and fragrance. A classic Cattleya flower has three sepals and three petals, with one petal modified into a prominent, ruffled lip called a labellum, which attracts pollinators.

Essential Cattleya Care

Light

Cattleyas thrive in bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is ideal, providing gentle morning sun that will not scorch the leaves. A south or west-facing window can also work but requires a sheer curtain to diffuse the intense afternoon sun.

The color of the leaves is a reliable indicator of appropriate light levels. Healthy, well-lit plants have light, apple green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, the plant is not receiving enough light to bloom, while yellow or reddish leaves indicate too much direct sun.

Water

Cattleyas are adapted to a wet-dry cycle and should not be kept constantly moist. Water thoroughly, allowing room-temperature water to soak the roots and flush through the pot’s drainage holes. Let the potting medium dry out almost completely before watering again, which is about once a week.

You can check for dryness by feeling the medium or noting the pot’s weight. Never use ice cubes, as the cold can shock the root system. It is also best to avoid softened water due to its high salt content; rainwater or distilled water is preferable. During active growth, the plant may require more frequent watering.

Potting Medium

The potting mix for Cattleyas must provide excellent drainage and aeration. Standard potting soil is unsuitable as it retains too much water and leads to root rot. A high-quality, coarse-grade orchid bark mix, often composed of fir bark, charcoal, and perlite, is the most common choice.

This medium allows water to drain freely while providing structure for the roots to anchor themselves. While some growers use sphagnum moss, it must be packed loosely to maintain air pockets and requires careful monitoring. Clay pots are often preferred over plastic because the porous material helps pull excess moisture from the roots, promoting faster drying.

Temperature and Humidity

Cattleyas prefer intermediate to warm temperatures reflecting their native habitats. Ideal daytime temperatures range from 70°F to 80°F (20°C to 27°C). At night, the temperature should drop by at least 10°F, to a range of 60°F to 64°F (15°C to 18°C).

These orchids also appreciate moderate to high humidity, ideally between 50% and 80%. In a home, this can be achieved with a humidifier or by setting the pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. Ensure the bottom of the pot sits above the waterline. Good air circulation is also recommended to prevent fungal growth.

Fertilizer

To support growth and flowering, Cattleyas need regular feeding during their active periods from spring through summer. A common strategy is the “weekly, weakly” method, applying a diluted, balanced orchid fertilizer (like 20-20-20) once a week.

To prevent the buildup of fertilizer salts in the potting medium, it is beneficial to flush the pot with plain water after feeding. This allows the roots to absorb nutrients without the risk of chemical burn from salt accumulation. Reduce or stop fertilizing during the winter when the plant’s growth slows.

Encouraging Blooms

A healthy Cattleya that is not producing flowers often needs specific environmental cues. The primary triggers are light and temperature. Ensure the plant receives enough bright, indirect light to maintain light green leaves, as this provides the energy to produce flowers.

A distinct drop in temperature of at least 10°F between day and night is another powerful blooming trigger. This mimics the natural environmental shifts that signal the orchid to initiate flower buds.

After the flowers have faded, you can cut off the old, dried flower stem. Do not trim the pseudobulbs, as they store the energy needed for future growth and flowering. Continue providing good care to help the plant produce new pseudobulbs for the next season’s blooms.

Repotting Cattleyas

Repotting should be done every two to three years, or when the potting medium decomposes or the plant outgrows its container. The best time to repot is when you see new root growth, identifiable by bright green root tips, as this ensures the plant can establish itself quickly.

Carefully remove the orchid from its old pot, minimizing root damage. Gently untangle the root ball and use sterilized shears to trim away any dead or rotting roots, which appear black or mushy. Healthy roots are firm and white or light tan.

When dividing a large plant, make sure each new division has at least three pseudobulbs. Select a new pot that is only slightly larger than the root mass. Place the oldest part of the plant against the side of the pot, allowing new growth room to expand. Fill the pot with fresh orchid bark mix, and wait about a week before watering to allow any cut roots to heal and prevent rot.

Common Problems and Solutions

Common pests include scale insects and mealybugs, which feed on plant sap and hide in leaf crevices or on the undersides of leaves. For small infestations, you can remove them manually using a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol.

Root rot is a frequent problem caused by overwatering or a degraded potting medium. Affected roots will be black, soft, and mushy. To resolve this, trim away all rotted portions with a sterile tool and repot the orchid in fresh, fast-draining bark mix. Adjust your watering schedule to allow the medium to dry out between waterings.

Yellowing leaves can be a sign of overwatering, root rot, or the natural aging of an old pseudobulb. New leaves that grow in a wrinkled, accordion-like fashion indicate the plant experienced insufficient water while the leaf was developing.