How to Grow and Care for Blue Lotus Flowers

The Blue Lotus, Nymphaea caerulea, is an aquatic plant celebrated for its striking blue-to-violet flowers and significant cultural history. Revered by ancient Egyptians as a symbol of creation and rebirth, this water lily brings serene beauty to any water garden or pond. Its star-shaped blooms, which open in the morning and close in the afternoon, create a captivating daily display. Growing this plant offers a connection to its storied past.

## How to Start Blue Lotus from Seeds and Tubers

#### Starting from Seeds

Propagating Blue Lotus from seeds begins with scarification. The hard, dark brown seed coat must be gently nicked or filed to allow water to penetrate. Using fine-grit sandpaper, rub a small area of the seed until the lighter, cream-colored inner layer is visible, being cautious not to damage the embryo. Once scarified, place the seeds in a container of warm, dechlorinated water between 75 and 80°F (24-27°C).

The seeds will initially float, then sink after about a day as they swell. Change the water daily to prevent bacterial growth. Within a few weeks, the seeds will sprout into fine, grass-like seedlings. When they have developed two or three floating leaves, they are ready for transplanting.

#### Starting from Tubers

Starting Blue Lotus from tubers, or rhizomes, is a more direct method. A healthy tuber will be firm and have at least one visible growing point, or “eye.” In early spring, place the tuber in a bowl of warm water between 75 and 87°F (24-31°C), located in a warm, sunny spot out of direct sunlight.

Change the water every few days if it becomes cloudy. Soon, shoots and roots will emerge from the growing points. Once the tuber has sprouted and shows active growth, it is ready for planting.

## Planting Your Blue Lotus

Select a wide, shallow pot without drainage holes; a container at least 12 inches deep and 24 inches wide is recommended. Avoid standard potting soil, which is too light and will float. Use a heavy soil mixture, like clay-heavy topsoil and sand, to anchor the plant and its roots securely. Fill the container with three to five inches of this soil.

Gently press the sprouted seedling or tuber into the soil’s surface without burying it too deeply. For tubers, point the growing tip upwards or lay them on their side. To prevent the soil from muddying the water and keep the substrate in place, add a top layer of fine gravel or sand. After planting, slowly lower the container into your pond or water garden.

## Essential Light and Water Conditions

Blue Lotus must receive at least six hours of direct sunlight each day to thrive and produce blooms. In areas with extremely hot summers, partial shade during the hottest part of the day can prevent overheating. The plant also needs protection from strong winds, which can damage the floating leaves.

Blue Lotus prefers warm, still water with a temperature between 70°F and 80°F (21-27°C). When you first submerge the pot, the water depth above the soil should be around 2 inches. As the plant grows and leaf stalks lengthen, you can gradually increase the water depth to between 9 and 16 inches.

## Fertilizing and Winter Care

Regular fertilization during the growing season encourages abundant flowers. Use fertilizer tablets designed for aquatic plants, as they release nutrients slowly to the roots without clouding the water. Apply the fertilizer monthly during the active growing period by pushing the tablets into the soil. Cease fertilizing as the plant enters dormancy in the fall.

Blue Lotus is a tropical plant that cannot tolerate frost and will go dormant in winter. In USDA hardiness zones 10-12, it may survive outdoors in a pond. In colder climates, bring the container indoors before the first frost. You can store the pot in a cool, dark place like a basement, keeping the rhizome in damp sand or peat until spring, or overwinter the plant in an indoor aquarium with warm water and supplemental light.

## Troubleshooting Common Growing Problems

Stunted growth can be a sign of inadequate light or not enough space for the roots to expand. Yellowing leaves may indicate a nitrogen deficiency, but it can also be a natural part of the plant’s life cycle as old leaves die off or the plant enters dormancy. Aphids sometimes gather on the lily pads and can be removed by hand or with a gentle spray of water.