How to Grow and Care for an Urn Plant

The Urn Plant, Aechmea fasciata, is a popular bromeliad prized for its decorative appearance. Native to the rainforests of Brazil, this plant has adapted to indoor environments. Its most notable features are the stiff, silvery-green leaves that form a rosette and the large, long-lasting pink flower bract that emerges from the center.

Core Care Requirements

Light

Urn Plants thrive in bright, indirect sunlight. An ideal location is near an east or west-facing window. While they can tolerate lower light conditions for short periods, prolonged exposure to dim light will hinder their growth and ability to produce offspring. Direct, hot sun should be avoided, as it can scorch the leaves.

Soil

As an epiphyte, a plant that naturally grows on other plants like trees, the Urn Plant’s root system is primarily for anchoring. For potted cultivation, a well-draining potting medium is necessary to prevent waterlogging and root rot. Standard potting soil is often too dense. A mix designed for orchids, or a custom blend of sphagnum peat, pine bark, and perlite, provides the necessary aeration and moisture retention.

Watering

The central cup, or “urn,” formed by the leaves should be kept about one-quarter full of water. It is recommended to use rainwater or distilled water. This central reservoir should be flushed and refilled every one to two months to prevent bacterial growth and stagnation. The soil itself should be watered sparingly, only when it has completely dried out, because the plant absorbs most of its moisture through its leaves.

Temperature and Humidity

Coming from a tropical environment, the Urn Plant prefers warm and humid conditions. The ideal temperature range is between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. A humidity level between 40 and 50 percent is best for this plant. To increase humidity, you can place the pot on a tray of damp pebbles or mist the leaves regularly.

Fertilizer

The Urn Plant does not have heavy feeding requirements. During the spring and summer growing season, apply a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer, but it should be diluted to half-strength. Feeding can be reduced to every two or three months during the fall and winter when the plant’s growth slows.

Understanding the Urn Plant Life Cycle

The Urn Plant is monocarpic, which means it flowers only once during its lifetime. After a mature plant produces its pink flower bract, which can last for several months, the plant will begin a slow decline. The parent plant, often called the “mother” plant, will gradually wither over the course of several months to a year after blooming.

As the main plant fades, it puts its energy into producing new plants, known as offsets or “pups.” These pups grow from the base of the mother plant and are the next generation.

Propagation and Repotting

Propagation of the Urn Plant is achieved through its pups. Once the mother plant’s flower has faded and it begins to decline, you will notice these small plants forming at its base. The pups are ready to be separated when they have grown to be about one-third the size of the mother plant.

To propagate, use a clean, sharp knife to cut the pup away from the mother plant, trying to include some of its roots if any have formed. The separated pup can then be potted into its own small container with a well-draining potting mix. The new plantlet should be watered lightly, keeping the soil moist but not soggy, as it will not have a developed central urn yet.

Common Problems

Root rot is a frequent issue with Urn Plants, resulting from overwatering the soil. If the base of the plant turns mushy or yellow, overwatering is the likely cause. The soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings, as the plant primarily takes in water through its central cup.

Brown tips on the leaves can be caused by low humidity, which can be remedied by misting the plant or using a pebble tray. It can also be a reaction to the minerals and chemicals in hard tap water, which is why using distilled or rainwater is recommended.

A failure to bloom is typically due to the plant not being mature enough, as it can take several years for a pup to reach flowering age. Insufficient light can also prevent a mature plant from flowering. To encourage a mature plant to bloom, some growers place a ripe apple near the plant and cover both with a plastic bag for a week or two; the ethylene gas from the apple can help stimulate flowering.