How to Grow and Care for an Espresso Orchid

The term “espresso orchid” refers not to a specific species of orchid, but to a marketing concept. These are miniature orchids, typically of the Phalaenopsis genus, sold in tiny decorative pots resembling espresso cups. Their small size makes them popular for decorating small spaces like desks or windowsills.

Understanding the plant’s true identity is the first step toward proper care. These small plants are miniature versions of Phalaenopsis orchids, which are forgiving and well-suited for beginners. Their care requirements are nearly identical to their larger counterparts, just on a smaller scale.

Bred for their compact size, these orchids reach a maximum height of about six to eight inches. Their elegant, arching flower spikes can produce multiple colorful blooms that last for several weeks or even months.

Espresso Orchid Care

Light

Phalaenopsis orchids require bright, indirect sunlight for health and reblooming. An east-facing window that receives gentle morning sun is an ideal location. A west- or south-facing window can also work, provided the light is filtered by a sheer curtain to prevent the direct rays from scorching the leaves.

You can gauge the light levels by observing the leaves. A healthy orchid will have firm, olive-green leaves. If the leaves turn a dark, forest green, the plant is not receiving enough light. Yellowish or reddish-tinged leaves are a sign of too much direct sun exposure.

Water

Many miniature orchids are sold with instructions to water using an ice cube, but this method is not the best practice. The freezing temperature of an ice cube can shock the sensitive root system of a tropical plant.

A much better watering technique involves soaking the roots in lukewarm water. These orchids are usually potted in a small plastic liner with drainage holes. Once a week, or when the roots appear silvery-grey and the potting medium is dry, remove the inner plastic pot.

Submerge the plastic pot in a bowl of room-temperature water for 10 to 15 minutes, allowing the roots and medium to become fully saturated. After soaking, lift the pot out and let it drain completely for several minutes. It is important that the plant does not sit in standing water, as this will quickly lead to root rot.

Humidity and Temperature

As tropical natives, these orchids are comfortable in the same temperature range that most people enjoy, between 65 and 80°F (18-27°C). Avoid placing the plant near drafts from windows, doors, or air conditioning vents, as sudden temperature fluctuations can cause stress.

These plants also prefer a humid environment, ideally between 55% and 75%. Most homes are drier than this, especially during winter. To increase humidity around the plant, you can place it on a tray filled with pebbles and water or run a small humidifier nearby.

Fertilizer

To support healthy growth and flowering, regular feeding is needed during the active growing season of spring and summer. Use a balanced orchid fertilizer, often labeled with a 20-20-20 formula, diluted to one-quarter or one-half the strength recommended on the package.

Fertilize the orchid every two to four weeks, but only when the plant is actively producing new leaves or roots. During the fall and winter, when growth slows, you can reduce feeding to once a month or stop entirely. Always water the plant thoroughly before applying any fertilizer solution to avoid burning the roots.

Repotting From the Espresso Cup

The tiny espresso cup your orchid arrived in is a temporary home. Eventually, the plant will outgrow its container or the potting medium will begin to break down. The best time to repot is after the orchid has finished blooming, which allows the plant to direct its energy toward root and leaf growth.

Signs that it is time to repot include roots that are tightly circling the inside of the pot or growing extensively out of the drainage holes. Another indicator is if the potting medium has decomposed into a fine, soil-like texture, which can restrict airflow and suffocate the roots.

You will need a new pot that is only one to two inches larger in diameter than the current one. Using a pot that is too large can cause the medium to stay wet for too long, leading to root rot. Begin by gently squeezing the sides of the plastic liner to loosen the root ball and carefully slide the orchid out.

Once the plant is free, carefully remove all the old potting medium from the roots. Use sterilized scissors to trim away any dead or unhealthy roots, which will appear brown, black, or mushy. Center the plant in the new pot and fill in around it with a fresh, well-draining orchid mix.

How to Encourage Reblooming

After your orchid’s initial flowers have faded, you can influence the next flowering cycle by how you handle the old flower spike. If the spike is still green and healthy, you have two choices. You can cut the spike just above an unused node—a small triangular bump on the stem—which may encourage a new, smaller branch of flowers to form.

Alternatively, you can cut the entire flower spike off at the base of the plant. This approach may take longer to see new blooms, but it often results in a stronger spike with more and larger flowers in the long run. If the spike has already turned yellow or brown, it will not rebloom and should be cut back to the base.

A trigger for initiating a new flower spike on a Phalaenopsis orchid is a slight drop in nighttime temperature. Exposing the plant to nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65°F (13-18°C) for several consecutive weeks can stimulate the development of a new bloom spike. This can often be achieved by placing the plant near a cooler window during the fall.