How to Grow and Care for Alocasia Imperial Red

The Alocasia Imperial Red is a hybrid plant, often called ‘Imperial Taro’, known for its large, glossy, deep green leaves on thick reddish stems. The undersides of the leaves often carry a deep red or purple hue, adding to its visual appeal. Its upright, clumping growth habit gives it a commanding presence, making it a popular choice for adding architectural flair to indoor spaces.

Imperial Red Care Guide

Light

Proper lighting is needed to maintain the vibrant coloration of the Alocasia Imperial Red. This plant thrives in bright, indirect light, similar to its natural habitat on the forest floor. An east-facing window with gentle morning sun is ideal, but a spot with filtered light from a south or west-facing window also works. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch the leaves, causing brown patches or fading its colors.

Soil

A well-draining substrate is a requirement for the Alocasia Imperial Red, as it is susceptible to root rot in wet conditions. A chunky aroid mix is recommended, which can be made by combining potting soil with amendments like perlite, coconut coir, and orchid bark. This mixture provides aeration for the roots while retaining adequate moisture, keeping the soil moist but never waterlogged.

Water

Water the Imperial Red thoroughly when the top one to two inches of soil feel dry. During the spring and summer growing season, this may mean watering about once a week. In the winter, when the plant’s growth slows, reduce watering frequency and allow the soil to dry out more between sessions. Always use a pot with drainage holes to let excess water escape.

Temperature & Humidity

The Alocasia Imperial Red flourishes in warm and humid conditions, with ideal temperatures between 65°F and 85°F (18°C to 29°C). It is sensitive to cold drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations, so keep it away from open windows or air conditioning vents. High humidity above 60% is beneficial. To increase humidity, you can use a humidifier, place the plant on a pebble tray with water, or mist the leaves.

Fertilizer

The Imperial Red benefits from regular feeding during its active growing period. Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, every two to four weeks throughout the spring and summer. Avoid fertilizing during the winter when the plant is not actively growing, as this can lead to a buildup of salts in the soil.

Understanding Alocasia Dormancy

Alocasia may enter a natural resting period called dormancy, which is a survival mechanism, not a sign the plant is dying. This is often triggered by environmental changes like shorter daylight hours and cooler temperatures in fall and winter. During dormancy, the plant conserves energy, which can result in yellowing leaves, leaf drop, or even dying back completely to its underground rhizome.

When your Alocasia enters this phase, adjust your care. Reduce watering significantly, providing just enough to keep the soil from drying out, and stop all fertilization. Keep the plant in a warm location, as temperatures below 60°F (15°C) can prolong dormancy. With the arrival of spring, the plant will begin to emerge from rest, and you can gradually increase watering as new growth appears and resume your fertilizing schedule once it is actively growing again.

Repotting and Propagation

Repotting

Repotting is needed every one to two years, or when the plant becomes root-bound. Signs that it’s time to repot include roots growing out of the drainage holes or slowed growth despite proper care. The best time to repot is during the active growing season in spring or early summer. When moving the plant, choose a new pot that is slightly larger and refresh the soil with a well-draining mix.

Propagation

The most common way to propagate an Alocasia Imperial Red is through division or by planting its corms. When repotting, you can gently separate the root ball to create new plants from distinct offsets. These divisions should be potted up individually. Alternatively, search the soil for corms, which look like small, round bulbs. To encourage a corm to sprout, place it in a humid environment like moist sphagnum moss with the pointed growth tip facing up. Once roots and a leaf have developed, the new plantlet can be potted into soil.

Common Problems and Solutions

Spider Mites

Alocasias are susceptible to spider mites, tiny pests that thrive in dry indoor conditions. You might notice fine webbing on the plant or tiny specks on the undersides of the leaves. To combat them, increase humidity and regularly wipe down the leaves with a damp cloth. For persistent infestations, an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray can be effective.

Yellowing Leaves

Yellowing leaves on an Alocasia Imperial Red are most often a symptom of overwatering. If you notice yellowing, check the soil moisture and adjust your watering schedule to allow the top layer of soil to dry out more between waterings. Ensure the pot has adequate drainage to prevent water from accumulating at the roots, which can lead to root rot.

Brown Crispy Edges

The development of brown, crispy edges on the leaves is an indication of low humidity. Since these plants are native to tropical environments, they require higher moisture levels in the air than many homes provide. Using a humidifier, grouping it with other plants, or placing it on a pebble tray are effective ways to increase the ambient humidity.

Toxicity Information

The Alocasia Imperial Red is toxic to pets and humans if ingested because it contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. When chewed or swallowed, these sharp crystals can cause irritation and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and throat. Keep this plant out of reach of curious pets and small children. Wearing gloves when handling the plant for pruning or repotting can also prevent skin irritation from the sap.