Common Meyer Lemon Tree Problems and How to Handle Them
Learn to diagnose your Meyer lemon tree's health by understanding its symptoms. Our guide helps you identify the root cause and provide the right solution.
Learn to diagnose your Meyer lemon tree's health by understanding its symptoms. Our guide helps you identify the root cause and provide the right solution.
Meyer lemon trees are a popular choice for home gardeners, offering fragrant blossoms and flavorful fruit. This guide examines the common problems these trees face and provides clear, actionable solutions to help your plant thrive.
Yellowing leaves, known as chlorosis, points to a lack of chlorophyll from issues like improper watering or nutrient imbalances. Overwatering is a common culprit, leading to yellow, soft leaves as saturated soil prevents nutrient absorption. Conversely, underwatering causes leaves to turn yellow before becoming brown and dry.
Specific discoloration patterns offer more precise clues. A nitrogen deficiency causes older, lower leaves to yellow first, spreading to new growth. If new leaves turn yellow but their veins remain green, an iron deficiency is the likely cause, while manganese deficiency can manifest as yellow spotting on leaves.
Other forms of leaf damage also signal specific problems. Brown, crispy spots on leaves often indicate sunburn or fertilizer burn from an overzealous application of nutrients. Leaves that curl inward can be a response to heat stress, underwatering, or an early pest infestation. A sudden drop of many leaves signals shock from an abrupt change in environment, such as a shift in temperature, light, or watering.
Pests and diseases can challenge the health of a Meyer lemon tree. Common pests are often small, but they leave distinct evidence of their presence and can lead to secondary infections. Common sap-sucking pests cluster on new growth or the undersides of leaves:
The honeydew produced by these pests often leads to sooty mold, a black fungus that coats leaves and interferes with photosynthesis. Controlling the pest infestation is the only way to eliminate sooty mold. Treatment for most common pests involves horticultural oil or insecticidal soap, requiring thorough coverage on the undersides of leaves.
A more direct threat is root rot, a fungal disease caused by overly wet and poorly drained soil. Symptoms mimic underwatering, with yellowing leaves and declining vitality, but are joined by foul-smelling soil and mushy, brown roots. Prevention requires well-draining soil and a pot with adequate drainage. To treat an infection, repot the tree into fresh soil after trimming away affected roots.
A tree’s failure to produce blossoms is a common hurdle. Most citrus trees need to be three to five years old before they are mature enough to fruit. A lack of specific nutrients, particularly phosphorus and potassium, can also inhibit bloom production.
A tree may also fail to set fruit even after flowering. It is natural for a citrus tree to drop many flowers and immature fruits. However, an excessive drop signals stress from inconsistent watering, sudden temperature fluctuations, or poor pollination. For indoor trees, hand-pollination can be done by transferring pollen between flowers with a small brush.
The quality of the fruit can also indicate underlying issues. Lemons that remain small or have a bumpy texture often point to inconsistent watering or nutrient deficiencies during development. Ensure the tree receives deep, regular watering and a balanced citrus fertilizer. Avoid excess nitrogen, as it encourages leafy growth at the expense of fruit.
A tree’s light exposure is a primary factor in its health. Too much intense, direct sunlight can cause sunburn, which appears as bleached or brown patches on leaves and fruit. Conversely, insufficient light causes sparse, leggy growth and pale leaves. A tree needs at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily to thrive and produce flowers.
As subtropical plants, Meyer lemons are sensitive to frost. Cold damage can manifest as blackened leaves and the dieback of branches. To protect the tree during a cold snap, cover it with a blanket or move potted specimens to a sheltered location when temperatures drop below freezing.